from La Paz, Baja

I write from the La Paz office of RickMcCharles.com, worldwide … Cafe Exquisito.

It’s on the famous Malecón, a stone walkway fronting the bay. Mom thinks it’s the prettiest she’s ever seen.

more interesting photos tagged La Paz, Baja Malecón

Instead of going to my “regular” dentist in Mazatlan, I signed on with Dr. Lorenia Estrada in La Paz. She’s putting in several thousands of dollars of bridges.

My long term goal is to have as winning a smile as Joe Biden, … in my coffin.

I got a rave review for Dr. Estrada from an American expat living in Mexico. He liked the dentist so well that he married her dental assistant.

So far, so good. I’m living on yogurt, ice cream, coffee, pain killers and antibiotics.

We take the ferry over to the mainland on Tuesday.

our home in Loreto, Baja – Coco Cabanas

We stayed 9 nights. Life centers around the only heated / refrigerated pool in town.

official website

One of the U.S. owners, Steve, took good care of us. He was most welcoming and informative. Mucho Gracias.

Coco Cabañas is located in Loreto, Baja California, Mexico, one block from the Sea of Cortez and two blocks from downtown. All the fun excitement, shopping and dining is just minutes walking distance away

We have eight individual cabañas surrounding our quiet, palm landscaped courtyard. The courtyard features a pool in the center and a barbecue area to one side. Each cabaña has a fully furnished kitchen, dining area, air conditioning, TV with video library, ceiling fans, beds for one to three persons, bathrooms with showers and hot water. The covered patio porch with fan, chairs and table make the evenings most enjoyable

However long your stay, we will make your visit pleasurable. If you come to fish, dive, snorkel, hike, or just enjoy the natural beauties of Loreto, we can arrange your needs with the best people and places available.

With nightly rates of $89 and weekly of $553 (all taxes included / double occupancy), Coco Cabañas is your best choice with the best accommodations there is to offer.

official website

San Javier Mission, Baja

I was a little worried when I heard the 37km road trip to the San Javier Mission took at least 2hrs, one way.

But Kip and Mary, our hosts and chauffeurs, had been there before. We bounced our way up the rugged track in to the Gigantic Mountains (Sierra Giganta) of the Baja peninsula.

San Javier, Baja

… Jesuit Father Francisco María Píccolo visited the place on May 11, 1699. He started the construction of a chapel in October of the same year …

The church, considered one of the most beautiful and well preserved of the Californias, was built with stone taken from quarry from the bed of the brook of Santo Domingo 20 km southeast of San Javier. Its original baroque appearance has been well preserved; its interior has: a golden altarpiece with five oleos, brought from Mexico City in thirty two boxes; two statues: one of San Francisco Javier and another one of Our Lady of Guadalupe; and a crucifix, all of these are from the 18th century. It has three bells, two of them are dated 1761 and the other one 1803. There is a monument of that time at the end of the street that leads to the church. It is known as “the Cross of Calvary”. From there hundreds of pilgrims who visit the patron saint walk sometimes on their knees. …

read more – Baja Quest

We were quite impressed with the Mission, located high in a green oasis.

San Javier, Baja

This visit is a must do pilgrimage for all tourists (and their pets) visiting Loreto.

San Javier, Baja

After lunch, we made a slower descent, stopping to photograph wild poppies.

San Javier, Baja - poppies

Here Mom’s searching for some ancient Indian rock paintings.

San Javier, Baja - rock paintings

A terrific destination. The San Javier Mission is highly recommended.

see all my photos from the day on flickr

Dad caught two Yellowtail

Our trip to the Baja is a success. Dad caught two (delicious) local delicacies fishing out of Loreto.

… schools of yellowtail make their home exclusively in the Sea of Cortez. In winter, these fish are found in the southern areas from Mulege to La Paz. During summer, they move up to the cool waters of the Midriff Area.

In the spring and fall, yellowtail school up for migration, and it is then that the best catches are made….

Although yellowtail are now scarce in California -waters, there are still lots of them in Baja.

Most big yellowtail caught in the Cortez are found down in the reefs 100 to 250 feet deep. They are hooked either on live bait or on iron jigs yo-yoed near the bottom. …

Baja Catch

He was jigging at about 220ft.

Villages of Loreto Bay

Located seven miles south of the town of Loreto in Baja California Sur, the Villages of Loreto Bay is an 8,000-acre new urbanist development that strives to be North America’s largest sustainable resort development. At buildout—anticipated by 2020—the $3 billion project will include village neighborhoods constructed in nine phases primarily along the protected Loreto Bay on the Sea of Cortés. …

Sounds great. Looks fantastic.

The golf course is stunning.

… pedestrian-oriented villages will feature commercial services such as corner markets within walking distance, and a town center featuring a larger collection of retail uses a short walk from the neighborhoods …

The first question we asked is, “Where’s the parking?”

I love the concept. No cars. You must walk, bike or take your electric golf cart.

You’d spend a lot of time on your roof.

read more about this incredibly ambitious project on Terrain.org

official website – LoretoBay.com

Now the bad news.

In February rumours of possible sale to a new owner were confirmed. The economy is terrible. Financing of the mega-project collapsed.

Construction continues. But it would be fair to say that the future of Loreto Bay is up in the air right now.

is the Baja dangerous?

My Dad and I were warned at a tourist information kiosk in California that hundreds of tourists were beheaded in Baja recently!

I discovered one of those victims on the beach.

Loreto, Baja - beach junk

The beheading warning stems from news that Police officers near Tijuana were beheaded after they attempted to investigate a party being held by arrested drug kingpin Javier Arrello Felix in 2009. Beheading is a terror tactic used against law enforcement.

The last time I was here, Baja was considered safe, mellow … but too much like California.

… Then came the great drug wars, with the first gruesome headlines coming out of Tijuana. Suddenly, anyone contemplating a trip across the border was placed on suicide watch.

Leave aside for the moment that the drug cartels aren’t targeting tourists, that their internecine battles rarely break out anywhere near tourist districts, or that crime has actually declined around Tijuana recently as the field of combat shifts to northeastern Mexico. For some travelers, those early headlines will remain indelible.

That doesn’t mean Baja is off the itinerary. …

read why – San Francisco Chronicle – Don’t write off Baja just yet

Your biggest danger in Baja is hitting a cow while driving at night. Or going broke. It’s just as expensive as Canada or the States though quality and reliability of goods and services is far inferior.

There are plenty of valid reasons not to travel to Baja: wind, dust, litter, dogs, bad roads. No need to exaggerate the risk of being killed in a drug shoot out.

I wouldn’t travel to Mexico ever … except that dentists are an exception. They charge about 40% of the price in Canada for the same job. My first appointment is Tuesday in La Paz.

more interesting photos tagged Baja California

Loreto, Baja photos

I’ve started uploading my best pics from Loreto and surrounds.

Loreto, Baja - turtle

We drove here on invitation from friends of my parents, Kip and Mary. Our first breakfast together:

Loreto, Baja - breakfast at name - Dad, Mary, Mom, Kip

Kip and Mary have many years been living part of the year on a boat in the Baja. They’re currently out of Puerto Escondido.

Kip and Mary's boat - Puerto Escondido, Baja

The skipper spends a lot of time …

Kip skipper - Puerto Escondido, Baja

… tinkering and swabbing the poop deck.

See all my Loreto photos, so far.

arrived Loreto, Baja

Safe and sound in Loreto, after a leisurely but long 3450km (2143mi) drive over 5 days.

The northern Baja, one of the great scenic drives of the world, was much more challenging than I expected. A motorcycle would be the best vehicle so long as you didn’t hit one of the giant speed bumps at high velocity.

Loreto’s a quiet seaside town of about 10,000. Tourists love it.

more photos tagged Loreto

We’re here to holiday and visit with friends of my parents, Canadian snowbirds, who live several months a year on a boat.

Likely we’ll stay a week. Move south to La Paz. Then cross over to the mainland by ferry returning via my Uncle’s place in California.