the GREAT STUPA of Boudhanath is … GREAT

In 1998 I wrote: “The most rapt devotees at Boudanath, faces lit by butter candle lamp, aren’t the monks but Western women.”

That’s changed. Everyone, monks and Western students of Buddhism, stare at mobile phones in 2014. 🙂

Boudanath HAS changed a lot in the past 16yrs. It’s more commercial. More touristy. But still wonderful.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I arrived at dusk. Did my obligatory circumambulation kora. Then picked the most appealing rooftop restaurant.

Stir fried chicken, mushrooms, bamboo shoots on rice. Medium pot Masala Chai.

The smell of burning juniper permeates the Stupa. Monks chant. Blow conch horns. And bugle like rutting elk through long horns.

The ancient Stupa is one of the largest in the world. The influx of large populations of refugees from Tibet has seen the construction of over 50 Tibetan Gompas (Monasteries) around Boudhanath. As of 1979, Boudhanath is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. …

Tibetan merchants have rested and offered prayers here for many centuries. When refugees entered Nepal from Tibet in the 1950s, many decided to live around Boudhanath. …

Next time to Kathandu, I’ll stay in mellow Bouda rather than the tourist ghetto of Thamel. 🙂

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