MAP – driving Calgary to Vancouver

Update.  I ended up driving only about 2000 km. in 4 days.  The plan below was WAY TOO MANY HOURS behind the wheel. 

I skipped the backtracking to Jumbo Pass.

I have 4 days, up to 3000 km in my rented CanaDream Camper Van

Short hikes and bike rides along the way.

Here’s my itinerary, so far.  Of course I’ll change this on a whim once on the road starting Friday August 21. 

Bikepacking South Korea

This sounds ideal to me.

The Four Rivers Trail, launched 2012, runs from the N.W. corner of South Korea to the S.E. corner spanning almost 600 km.  Some claim Korea has the most advanced bike-touring infrastructure on Earth.

You can start from either Incheon or Seoul.

It’s mostly a flat paved route dedicated to cycling.

Read a 2013 trip report.

There are many other excellent long distance cycling paths in South Korea, as well.

Dreaming of Senja, Norway

I loved my trip to Lofoten, Norway in 2018.

What’s next?

Senja, even further north of the Arctic Circle.

click for larger version

Norway’s second-largest island, rivals Lofoten and Vesterålen for natural beauty yet attracts a fraction of the visitors.

Norway is the most expensive place I’ve ever been.

So I’d fly in with a bike and camping gear.  Sleep most nights outdoors.  Norway has a freedom to roam law so you can tent almost anywhere for free.

The weather is frightful, of course.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Lessons learned cycling Vancouver → Calgary

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17 days July 2020. No zeros.

One flat tire. 

The scenic Trans Canada ‘Great Trail’ is the best route as it tries to keep you off busy highways. However, it’s not possible to cycle it precisely as a few sections are ‘hiking only’, too steep and technical for a bike.

Happily there are often alternative routes.

I’m glad I skipped the 91km Gray Creek Pass, for example. It’s very steep on the west side.

The Great Trail Elk Valley is the best way to cross the Continental Divide to Alberta. Elk Lakes are a highlight.

I skipped a couple of other sections as well based on information I got from cyclists coming in the opposite direction. Each year there are unexpected detours, washouts, etc. Some years forest fires may force you to off the Great Trail.

I can’t recommend any apps for navigation. Certainly you should have the free OFFICIAL Great Trail app, though it’s crappy. Keen should be embarrassed to sponsor such a shoddy product.

Remember to click the Offline Maps (BETA) link and download the sections you need. Obviously offline maps should be the default as there are many sections with no service.

I used the free Maps.me, as well, though it doesn’t always show the Great Trail route.

I used Google Maps when I had service.  It doesn’t include the entire Great Trail, however.

BEST would be to download the route to something like the paid Ride with GPS app or a dedicated GPS navigation device.

I found it easy to resupply with food en route. Easy to recharge my batteries.

There are plenty of bike shops en route, but all were BUSY during COVID-19 2020. I had to beg in Cranbrook to have my steed looked at immediately.

I did not have much problem tenting free en route. Any crown land not posted is legal. There are campgrounds too, of course, but many cater to RVs not cyclists.

I love my gravel bike but for B.C. a mountain bike would be better. There are some rough trails. Some steep downhills.

Mosquitoes were bad in 2020 due to the late, wet spring. On the other hand, no forest fires to worry about.

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Cycling Vancouver → Rockies day 17

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July 24, 2020 – Elk Lakes to Calgary 

I awoke early in Elk Lakes Provincial Park to another day of great weather.

Coffee in bed.  Then I packed up quickly before enjoying an early morning hike to Upper Elk Lake.

This may be my best photo from the entire trip.

This is a lovely part of the Rockies.  I’ll definitely be back for more hiking.

It’s an active logging area, however.

I rejoined the couple who convinced me to try this route.  A combination of cycling and pushing over the Continental Divide.

George had told me the crossing was fairly easy.  And it was.

Still, we were relieved to get to the top.

Cyclists take this Trans Canada Great Trail powerline route, much easier than the alternative Elk Pass Trail most often used by hikers.

It was mostly downhill from there.  A combination of fun paved bike paths in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and busy tourist highway.

I planned to push hard all the way to Calgary.  The end of my trip.  It would be my record for distance covered in one cycling day.

Feeling great, I wasn’t surprised to see a big storm looming in the Calgary distance.  My home town seems to be cursed in 2020.

When heavy rain began, I cycled harder.

When lighting appeared, however, I started to consider finding shelter.

Seems I was on the edge of a supercell thunderstorm.

Finally, a flat rear tire on my puncture resistant 😕 new Marathon Plus.

I huddled under the Trans Canada Highway about 30km from Calgary until Brian drove out to rescue me.  Bringing pizza!

“This is the way the cycling ends / Not with a bang but a whimper.”

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | info

Cycling Vancouver → Rockies day 16

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July 23, 2020 – Elkford to Elk Lakes 

Getting to Elkford Municipal campground from Fernie the previous day had been a highlight day of the entire trip.  😎

Today was not nearly as exciting.

It started well.

The Trans Canada Great Trail winds through Elkford …

… and loops above town on scenic pathways.

But most of the way north is on gavel road. About 70km of good gravel road from Elkford to the Park.  It seemed to take forever.

I’d only seen one small bear on the trip, so far, but there’s plenty of scat in this part of the B.C.

Not much traffic.  But many logging trucks.

Most slowed down to reduce dust as they passed me.

Though most campgrounds in Canada are full July 2020, there are plenty of excellent free sites sitting empty on the Elkford highway.

Late in the afternoon I caught up with my friends who had set up camp already …

… but I carried on, keen to camp — for the first time — at Elk Lakes Provincial Park.

I’d like to go back, actually, as there are a number of trails and routes never busy.

Next door is Height of the Rockies Provincial Park, even less visited. You can get to 6 trailheads via logging roads and trails.  But there are no campgrounds or other park services.

After seeing hardly any people all day I was surprised to find a dozen campers at Lower Elk Lake.  Most had hiked in from Alberta on the Elk Pass trail.

I was too tired to do more than click this one photo at 8:16pm.

Impressive.

I planned to do some hiking next morning.

And I did enjoy some time sitting around the campfire with a group of 4 friends, each of whom had carried in their own tent — COVID-19 physical distancing.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | info

Cycling Vancouver → Rockies day 15

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July 22, 2020 – Fernie to Elkford

I was early to Timmies in Fernie.

At this point I had not yet convinced myself to try the more challenging highway 43 north from Sparwood.

The route into Elk Pass is a remote and challenging journey, and travellers should be self sufficient and be prepared to turn back if necessary due to the topography, lack of roads and possibility of washed out bridges.

I was defaulting to busy highway 3 west from Sparwood.

The day started on an excellent and challenging mostly single track routes called the Elk Valley Coal Discovery Trail.

Moving east, wildflowers were still in bloom.

Eventually I reached quiet dirt backroads that would take me to Sparwood.

I bumped into a couple cycling who had crossed from the Elkford highway into Alberta twice previously. They quickly convinced me I could do it too.

In fact, I cycled with them on and off for the next 2 days.

If you ever stopped in Sparwood it was to see the Terex 33-19 “Titan” truck, once the highest capacity in the world.  Of course there are larger capacity trucks today.

The bridges of Sparwood are really impressive.

Sparwood to Elkford on the Trans Canada Great Trail was perhaps my favourite half day of the whole trip.

Lovely ranch land with almost no traffic. Very few people.

A good breeze kept the mosquitoes off for once.

Though I did get lost en route, I managed to find the sulphur springs. Not hot enough for me to swim, however.

I rolled into Elkford late, getting a spot at the Elkford Municipal campground for $10.

Free hot showers. The end of civilization heading north.

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Cycling Vancouver → Rockies day 14

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July 21, 2020 – Lake Koocanusa to Fernie 

GREAT cycling day.

I love the Lake Koocanusa area.

A massive lake formed by the damming of the Kootenay River by the Libby Dam in 1972. …

The name is made from the first three letters of the Kootenay (alternately, Kootenai) River, Canada, and USA.

I stopped for brunch at the Kikomun Creek Provincial Park campground finding it had free hot showers!

More lakes. More lovely trails.

Weeds as high as an elephant’s eye.

Again I stayed mostly on the Trans Canada Great Trail.

But where it crossed an empty paved highway, I couldn’t resist the speedier route.

Stopping at an ice cream stand I saw this sign on the neighbour’s yard.

The final hours to Fernie were on dusty farm roads.

On the Great Trail you can often decide between easier roads or more challenging single track:

Huge estate homes look over to the famed ski hill.

I peddled all over Fernie as I’d never stopped there before.

Ended up camping discreetly in a city park.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | info

Cycling Vancouver → Rockies day 13

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July 20, 2020 – Cranbrook to crown land near Lake Koocanusa

Having a soft bed, I slept in for once.  I took this chance to get a number of errands done in Cranbrook.

The most important of those was a bike fix.  My front brake pads had worn off.  It was metal on metal.

An excellent repairman at Gerick Sports suggested I replace the sprocket and chain, both well worn.  CAD $134 well spent.  I’m more confident in the bike than myself.

Finally, after noon, I got away.

Turns out the cycling trails out of Cranbrook are some of the best of the Great Trail Canada wide. But first I had to find my way out of the city.

The next two days would be highlights of my trip. Rid of highway, I was mostly on rail trail, easy single track, quiet gravel farm roads. All with superb scenery. You can feel the mountains getting higher as you approach the Rockies.

The number of trail options is bewildering. From wheelchair accessible to challenging technical routes.

I had to turn back on one.  It got too steep.

Eventually I reached empty farm roads.

Very tranquil.

Much of that was bordered by private property. But I camped in crown land recreation area.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | info

Cycling Vancouver → Rockies day 12

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July 19, 2020 – Creston to Cranbrook 

As I’d skipped the Trans Canada Great Trail Grey Creek Pass, today was 115km of highway.   My dullest day yet.

I was motivated, however, by the chance to visit with friends in Cranbrook I hadn’t seen in at least 5 years.

Late the night before — after dismissing another depressing RV park — I found a convenient city storage yard for camping.

Unsurprisingly, it was very close to Timmies.

I didn’t linger long in Creston because mosquitoes. But this art gallery setting is impressive.

The highway was not bad. Quite a wide shoulder.

I stopped twice for my new favourite lunch – bagel toasted on my camping stove.

The second lunch I’d set up on a gas station picnic table. Until a guy came running out to warn me about open flames near gas pumps!

Logging has not been slowed by COVID-19.

There were a few scenic vistas.

But it was nice to finally reach Cranbrook about 5pm.

I enjoyed a great meal, catching up with my hosts.

Soft bed. Hot shower. I slept well.

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