I stayed at 3 different excellent hostels. They all cater for pilgrims walking the Camino.
Bilbao is quite walkable with many pedestrian paths — though the attractions are quite widely spaced.
Salt fish in the main market.
It seems to me that Basque separatist movement, happily, is is now pursued strictly through legal, democratic politics via regional parties like the left-wing coalition EH Bildu and the more moderate, conservative Basque Nationalist Party (PNV). Violence killed more than 850 over the years.
The Museum of Fine Arts was FREE for a week while I was there. Quite good.
I picked up my Camino passport (Credential) at the Cathedral and caught a bus to the French border to start my week long hike back to Bilbao.
Definitely visit Bilbao, if you get the chance.
My one regret is running out of time to make the side trip to the coastal islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. I’d even made a graphic. 😀
I thought it was a snake. They explained it’s a non-venomous legless lizard. Also called a deaf adder, blindworm, or regionally, a long-cripple, steelworm, and hazelworm. I’d never heard of the creature.
Get a haircut, hippie. 😀
Hairy Coo. Ready for the Scottish winter.
As I often do, booked an inexpensive early morning flight. Headed up to the small airport — BUT it’s locked during the night. Airport Information desk recommended I tent at the end of the last parking lot. Under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code you can tent almost anywhere for free.
The capital, Tirana, is NOT one of the tourist highlights. Fly in and leave as quickly as possible. The airport is terrible in 2026, by the way.
Taking walking tours of the centre on a hot day, I concluded this must be the most boring capital city in the world.
The only attraction to write home about is weird and wonderful Pyramid of Tirana. On top is the place to be at night.
Children sliding down the pyramid.
The inexplicable structure was co-designed by daughter of former dictator Enver Hoxha — and nobody has settled on best function. Numerous proposals to demolish the thing have been pitched — but I hope they keep it.
Tried to go to the Botanic Gardens — which seemed to be closed — so bought a ticket to the animal prison. The zoo is bad, as I expected, needing funds for reparations and animal care.
After a week hikingAccursed Mountains, crossing between Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro — some of our group finished the trip with an excellent meal downtown.
Food fantastic.
Walking town on Saturday night after dinner, I started to see why tourists like the lively cafe culture, and budget-friendly, high-quality food.
That night I stopped in at the government Flamingo Revolution protest. It started against luxury tourism developments, one backed by American investor Jared Kushner.
Expanding nationwide into an anti-government movement focused on corruption, land rights, protected areas, strategic-investment laws and political accountability. Most of the signs I saw were calling for Prime Minister Edi Rama to resign.
Tourism is booming everywhere in Albania — and I expect things will keep improving quickly.
Dubrovnik, Croatia, is now one of the most overtouristed cities in Europe, with visitors outnumbering permanent residents by a staggering ratio of up to 36 to 1.
Still … it’s fantastic.
I crossed the border to nearby Kotor, Montenegro, hoping it would be Dubrovnik light.
I found Kotor just as majestic. BETTER for hiking:
The Honda Element is officially rumored to return, with an anticipated global debut expected to happen sometime in late 2028.
According to leaked production plans first reported by Automotive News, Honda is reviving the iconic, quirky crossover to target the booming outdoor adventure market.
Personally, I’d love an old (discontinued) USED Honda Element.
Hiking great. 17 days in the tent, walking deserts in California and Nevada.
Cycling was the most problematic. But I still made it 11 days on the Trans Canada Great Trail, starting in Vernon and ending up in Fernie (with a busted bike).
What’s next?
Still considering my options.
The only thing fixed for sure is World Gymnastics Championships in Netherlands Oct. 2026.