Camino Ghosts by John Grisham

Third in the excellent series:

  1. Camino Island
  2. Camino Winds
  3. Camino Ghosts

Camino Ghosts is Grisham’s 50th novel. And as good as ever.

It combines his interests in writers, the justice system, and good winning over evil.

This is a feel good read.

AND might just get banned in Florida, increasing sales. Ron Desanctimonious doesn’t want to hear about mistreated African slaves.

… story is about Dark Isle, a sliver of a barrier island not far off the North Florida coast.

It was settled by freed slaves three hundred years ago, and their descendants lived there until 1955, when the last one was forced to leave.

That last descendant is Lovely Jackson, elderly now, who loves her birthplace and its remarkable history. But now Tidal Breeze, a huge, ruthless corporate developer, wants to build a resort and casino on the island, which Lovely knows, deep down, is rightfully hers. …

Definitely listen to the audio book. Whoopi Goldberg is the perfect reader.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Relaxing Split, Croatia

After Dubrovnik, everyone agrees that Split is an excellent next destination.

The best way to get from Dubrovnik to Split is by ferry.

Not being a beach fan, I skipped the famed islands. Took no boat tours other than this ferry.

There are a LOT of cruise ships in 2024.

Split was founded as the Greek colony of Aspálathos in the 3rd or 2nd century BCE, and in 305 CE, it became the site of the Palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian

There are ruins a plenty. And it’s much easier to visit those here than in crowded Dubrovnik.

Split is relaxing and casual. You don’t feel obliged to see ALL the famous attractions.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.


Keep in Mind

Many things do not work for the tourist in Croatia 2024. If you are promised snakes, there will be no snakes. Also no coffee. Nor a machine. And the rental bike will be unusable. 😀

Dubrovnik, Croatia is HOT

I’d long wanted to go to Dubrovnik.  One of the world’s best and best preserved walled cities. 

Game of Thrones scenery.

It’s a hot destination right now for cruise ships and Instagram influencers.  

TOO BUSY with tourists in the summer, I’m thinking.  

This small city can’t really handle the visitors they are getting.  Too much traffic.  Too few buses.  

BIG tourism is new here.  The place was near closed to visitors during the 10 year Yugoslav war. 

I’d flown in from Scotland and was a little overwhelmed on arrival. Happily I had a good (US $25) hostel dorm room with a view …

… and a helpful young guy at reception. He’d only arrived a month ago from Argentina and was still super excited about Dubrovnik.

Night 1 the hostel hosted a home made pizza party.

Highest priority for me was walking the famed walls.  2kms.  I walked it twice in sequence. 

Cost is 35 EU !?

Unfairly, the feral cats do not have to pay. 😀

So — like almost every tourist — I bought the 35EU Dubrovnik ticket which pays for the wall, the castle, Rector’s Palace, and several more interesting attractions. 

You also get a 24 hour bus ticket which costs about 5 EU by itself.   … Of course there’s no room on the buses. 😀

Surprisingly, I enjoyed the Museum of Modern Art. Normally my least favourite school of Art.

Obligatory stops at impressive Cathedrals.

I do recommend Dubrovnik, but not June through September.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.


Keep in Mind

Many things do not work for the tourist in Croatia 2024. If you are promised snakes, there will be no snakes. Also no coffee. Nor a machine. And the rental bike will be unusable. 😀

Mostar from Dubrovnik 2024

I’d not followed the Yugoslav Wars, 1991 to 2001, splitting Yugoslavia into 6 new republics.

I’d not realized that Bosnia and Herzegovina are one of those 6 nations — so I signed on to a popular day trip out of Dubrovnik, Croatia.  Joining a tour makes the border crossing out of the EU easier.  

The highlight was a morning stop at Kravica (Kravice) waterfall.  It’s even more magical than photos reveal. 

25m high.  120m wide. 

Picturesque Kravice waterfalls in the National Park of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Location: Kravice Falls, Studenci, West Herzegovina Canton, Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Unlike many similar scenic waterfalls around the world, you can swim and boat in this one. 

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

The other major stop was at the interesting historical capital of HerzegovinaMostar.

Mostar was named after the bridge keepers (mostari) who guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva during the Ottoman era.

Commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century, completed in 1566, it’s one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most visited landmarks, and is considered an exemplary piece of Islamic architecture in the Balkans.

A monumental project to rebuild the Old Bridge, which was destroyed during the Bosnian War, to the original design, and restore surrounding structures and historic neighbourhoods was initiated in 1999 and mostly completed by spring 2004. The money for this reconstruction was donated by Spain.

In July 2005, UNESCO inscribed the Old Bridge and its closest vicinity onto the World Heritage List.

Tourists wait around to watch young people jump.  They’ll do it for about 50 EU in combined donations. 

screen grab from video

There are plenty of beautiful mosques in Mostar. 

Our guide recommended a restaurant — and it was excellent, though not inexpensive. 

Like Argentina, this is a MEAT eating nation.  So I had the mixed platter including several of the local favourites.  A BIG lunch.  Couldn’t finish it. 

The new nations, aside from (possibly) Slovenia and Croatia, are struggling. Yugoslavia became: SloveniaCroatiaBosnia and HerzegovinaMontenegroSerbia, and Macedonia (now called North Macedonia). 

Benevolent dictator Josip Broz Tito held factions together until his death in 1980.  Once he died, the stupidity began. A good argument against organized religion is religious conflict.

___

I learned more about Bosnia and Herzegovina from my excellent tour guide.

 Bosniaks are the largest group, Serbs the second-largest, and Croats the third-largest.

A three-member presidency is made up of one member from each of the three major ethnic groups.

Sarajevo is the capital and the largest city.

From the late 19th century until World War I, the country was annexed into the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. In the interwar period, Bosnia and Herzegovina was part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

After World War II, it was granted full republic status in the newly formed Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

In 1992, following the breakup of Yugoslavia, the republic proclaimed independence. This was followed by the Bosnian War, which lasted until late 1995 and ended with the signing of the Dayton Agreement which was reached at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base near Dayton, Ohio, United States, finalized on 21 November 1995

These accords put an end to the three-and-a-half-year-long Bosnian War, which was part of the much larger Yugoslav Wars.

My guide from Mostar told us the government is a MESS. This nation will not be joining the EU any time soon — even though he wants them to.

Visiting Dundee, Scotland

I wasn’t all that impressed with Dundee — but stayed here one night as a jumping off point for nearby St Andrews.  

With the decline of traditional industry (raw wool, whaling, shipbuilding, etc.), a £1 billion master plan to regenerate Dundee Waterfront is expected to last for a 30-year period between 2001 and 2031.

In 2015 The Wall Street Journal ranked Dundee at number 5 on its “Worldwide Hot Destinations” list for 2018.

… I’m not sure why. 

To me it felt a small city in decline.  Many shops vacant.  

There are some grand historic buildings.

On the other hand, tourist pedestrian streets downtown are great.  And it has excellent train and bus connections. 

My highlight was climbing up to the Dundee Law, the highest point in the city.  A large war memorial at its summit.

I’ll Never Visit Socotra Island, Yemen

I’ve been to Yemen. A most troubled nation.

And I’d love to get to Socotra Island.

BUT in 2024 the government only allows 3000 tourists / year. And it’s not inexpensive.

Socotra does look amazing.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

The Stone Circle by Elly Griffiths

#11 in the Ruth Galloway series is The Stone Circle (2019).

The best of the bunch I’ve read, so far.

Ruth is a forensic archaeologist in the U.K.

What separates these books from other murder mysteries is the back story of Ruth’s complicated personal life in a small town.

The father of her child — DCI Harry Nelson — is married to someone else.

Nearly a decade ago, Harry was the recipient of some anonymous letters that hampered his search for two missing girls.

The writer of those letters, archaeologist Erik Anderssen, is dead.

But now Harry and then Ruth, receive similar letters, exhorting them to “rescue the innocent buried” in the stone circle. …

Visiting Edinburgh, Scotland

I was happy to find flying Vancouver to Edinburgh was even cheaper than to London in June 2024.

I’d really enjoyed the city in the past ➙ Edinburgh FRINGE and Military Tattoo in 2009. (The Swiss Top Secret Drum Corps stole the show.)

This city is perfect for me.

I stravaig the  labyrinth of dark alleys and steep streets  through gorgeous architecture. Said to be built on seven hills. PLENTY of stone staircases.

Edinburgh now restricts motor vehicles in the city centre making it more walkable.

… On the other hand, their pedestrian lights simply don’t work. Everyone jaywalks. 😀

Highest priority is the BEST HIKE out of the city centre out along the Royal Mile past the Parliament Buildings

Read my trip report on hillwalking to Arthur’s Seat. With a detour on the return to Calton Hill.

I stayed at a Castle Rock hostel directly under Edinburgh Castle in the Old Town.

Here’s the view of the Castle from the hostel.

Across from this impressive … Fish and Chips shop (?). 😀

The National Museum of Scotland is great. Entry by donation.

Though I didn’t visit ALL of the hundreds of thousands of exhibits, I did see Dolly — the first mammal to be cloned from an adult cell 1996.

Dolly and surragate mother

Actually, my favourite single visual in town is this monument to author Sir Walter Scott. Over in the new town.

Wandering town, there’s much to see. Tesla had vehicles on display in one plaza.

On a weekend there are any number of festivals and events in progress. Plenty of street performers, some getting ready for FRINGE.

I do love Edinburgh.

BUT it’s swarming with tourists. 😀

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Visiting St Andrews, Scotland

My first visit to the home of Golf.

St Andrews does not have a train station. I stayed in Dundee and took the bus to visit for a day.

Though I’m not a golf nut, I’m surprised how much I liked the small, historic town.

… home to the University of St Andrews, the third oldest university (1413) in the English-speaking world …

St Andrews is also known globally as the “home of golf“. This is in part because of The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews, founded in 1754 …

It is also because the famous Old Course of St Andrews Links (acquired by the town in 1894) is the most frequent venue for The Open Championship, the oldest of golf‘s four major championships.  …

I walked the town on the St Andrew’s Circuit, appreciating the architecture and culture.

The St Andrews Cathedral ruins are impressive.

St Rule’s tower is a highlight.

There are some nice beaches.

The ruins of St Andrews Castle are impressive, as well.

Surprisingly, visitors can walk between the famed golf courses any time.

Surprisingly, golfers can bring their dogs along.

VERY surprisingly, on Sundays the Old Course is closed completely and becomes a public park with families having picnics and kicking around a ball.

I did the Old Course at St Andrews trail. And left quite tired.

That’s 6.8km of watching golfers struggle in the wind. 😀

I would go back to St Andrews for a golf holiday. There are many interesting and inexpensive courses in Fife.

My 9 holes on the Himalayan Yellow putting course set me back only 2 £.

Click PLAY or get a glimpse of the town on YouTube.

I Golfed St Andrews … 😀

Tiger, Bobby, Ben, Sam, Jack, Seve, …

All of the greats have challenged the Old Course at St Andrews.

Walked the Swilken Bridge between the first and eighteenth fairways.

It’s considered the oldest golf course in the world dating back to the 1400s.

And the “home of golf“.

It’s surprising flat — unless you land in one of 112 bunkers.

It’s surprisingly easy to find your ball — unless you land in the razor sharp gorse.

The wind and weather are a big challenge.

Here I am adjusting my putt for wind on the Himalaya Yellow Nine.

I can now humblebrag … I’ve golfed St Andrews.
clubhouse