travelogue – Xela, Guatemala

The most dramatic region of Guatemala is the Western Highlands: towering stands of pine, and every town and village tells a story.

Xela (shay-la) is the jumping off point for Highland adventures. It is also the home of the most important trekking organization in Central America, Quetzaltrekkers — a charity which raises funds by leading hikes.

Cool!

More than that, Xela is a unique, unforgettable city with a surprise on every street.

town
vegetables Argentina hostel

See more photos of fascinating Xela by jumping to flickr.

I did get in some hiking. 🙂

cloud view

 

travelogue – Atitlan, Guatemala

In the 1960s Lake Atitlan was a paradise hide-a-way from the rest of the world. Gringos lived there in semi-permanent hippy colonies.

It’s still a paradise. And you can still live there for US$10 a day!

The lake is a caldera (collapsed volcanic cone) dominated by huge volcanos.

Atitlan_map

Everyone starts at Pana (Panajachel), then boats to one of the many villages not accessible by road. San Pedro is an idyl where people get stuck for weeks.

atitlan

volcano view

See more photos of Pana and Atitlan by jumping to flickr. 

 

travelogue – Antigua, Guatemala

Almost impossibly cute, you will either love or hate Antigua.

… Cobbled streets, mustard and ochre coloured houses with colonial fittings, the leafy central park …

In 1979 Unesco declared Antigua a World Heritage Site.

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It’s filled with gringo Spanish students, volunteers and with Guatemalan tourists.

The town is nestled ominously between volcanoes, one still VERY active.

volcano

I love it as I do many of the other expat hangouts of the world including San Miguel de Allende, Mexico and Pokhara, Nepal.

It costs about US$1 / hour to ride jammed into one of these buses. Some are “Bluebird” school buses, built in Brantford, Ontario – decades ago sold off as no longer road worthy.

bus

Sure life is easy in Antigua. Certainly it is Western. Enjoy it for a few days while psyching up for the real Guatemala.

See more photos of pretty Antigua by jumping to flickr.

 

travelogue – Cobán, Guatemala

The hottest new stop for backpackers in Guatemala is Cobán.

We celebrated surviving a LONG travel day from Belize: van, van, ferry, van. When I say van, I mean 25 people! in an underpowered Toyota.

On a tip from some volunteers, we headed out to a good new hostel called El Sapote near Semuc Champey. One of the many taking advantage of the surge in popularity in this “backpacker’s paradise” destination. We squashed a scorpion and relocated big spiders.

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This is the jumping off point for the striking karst limestone mountains of Alta Verapaz. A bizarre landscape is reminiscent of Laos and the adventure tourism activities are the same: underground river walking and swimming (holding a candle!), spelunking, tire tube floating, … We lucked into one of the few sunny days and tried everything.

Adventure 1 -jump off bridge

bridge

Adventure 2 – 90 minute cave walk near Lanquin.

Adventure 4 – hike up to view point far above the Semuc Champey pools.

Adventure 3 – float down the river. Ahhh.

float

Adventure 4 – hike up to view point far above the Semuc Champey pools.

 

Adventure 5 – snorkel the pools. Until the irate security guard caught up to me. Seems snorkelling is illegal here.hikeAdventure 5 – snorkel the pools. Until the irate security guard caught up to me. Seems snorkelling is illegal here.

snorkel

When the roads are improved, this spot will be swarming with suitcase tourists off tour buses. I am glad we saw it first.

 

photos – Jain festival, India

BBC is my favourite photo site.

Check their excellent 3-minute audio slideshow of an Indian religious festival held only every 12 years. The world’s tallest monolith statue is annointed with tumeric, water, milk and flowers:

BBC photos – Audio slideshow: Spectacular Jain festival

{High speed internet connection recommended.)

The Jains are the ultimate proponents of non-violence.

statue

travelogue – Tikal, Guatemala

Tikal is one of the great archeological sites of the world. Excellent. No one leaves disappointed.

Tikal;

I travelled with Ron & Mollie from San Ignacio, Belize to El Remate, Guatamala.

Ron, Molly and I — 3 Canucks fretting about the lack of offence of the Canadian men’s hockey team at the Olympics — travelled across the Belize border to see the ruins and do a US$25 jungle zip-line adventure same day.

By our first evening in Guatemala, we already loved the country. The people are charming, helpful, polite. Reserved to the point of shyness. But quick to smile and very friendly.

In 1996 a peace accord was signed ending (sort of) 36 years of civil war in Guatemala.

Ten years later, the country is perhaps the most popular in central America with travellers and volunteers. Everyone is upbeat and enthusiastic for a better future.

Tikal tower

Tikal has more animal life than any other Mayan ruin. The highlight are dozens of pisotes (coatis), which climb like monkeys but forage on the ground.

coati

At the gates of Tikal is what they call a canopy tour. There’s no tour. It’s a zipline course through the jungle. Mollie went first. She had done this before in Costa Rica.

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See more photos of Tikal by by jumping to flickr. 

 

travelogue – snorkelling Belize

Being a fast walker in Belize is a no go. Rastafarians corrected me, “Go Slow, Mon.”

After weeks complaining about Mexico, I had a jerk eating grin when crossing the border into the tiny country of Belize. This is an English speaking enclave in Latin America — though I have to admit I understand more Spanish than the Creole English spoken here!

EVERYTHING is different in Belize. I loved it.

Tourists avoid Belize City known for drug violence, street people and crack whores. They head straight for the Cayes. Belize feels more like a Caribbean island than mainland, anyway.

Backpackers like best Caye Caulker, only 6.5km long, 600m wide.

I have always been poor at not drowning. I fear all bodies of water larger and colder than a jacuzzi. That’s why I am proud of the many days snorkelling I have put together on this trip. I can relax. The highlight for me was the Marine Reserve reefs off Belize including Shark and Ray Alley.

southern sting 1

See photos of Caye Caulker and BIG marine life by jumping to my photos on flickr.

Nurse Shark
Nurse Shark

Next time? I would love to take a sailing holiday through the cayes, living on the boat or camping en route.

travelogue – Tulum, Mexico

Looking for a beach paradise?

Tulum is a Mayan walled city guarding the gorgeous Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo, Mexico. However, once tourists see this Riviera Mexicana beach, they tend to forget to visit the archaeological attraction.

Screw Cancun. Bypass Playa del Carmen. Tulum is the best beach bang for your buck on the Mexican Caribbean.

Tulum on the Riviera Mexicana, 130km south of Cancun.

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I tented here 4 nights.

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We also rented at least one thatch roofed cabana in which I stored my gear.

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Tenting cost about US$6 / night. Cabanas run US$12 and up. A bit higher at Zazil Kin resort, your best bet.

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The beach is insect free. No hassles of any kind.

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Not much to do but walk the beach and snorkel out to the world’s second longest reef 400m from shore.

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There were many signs of last year’s hurricane damage.

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This toilet block did not survive a big blow.

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Sarah, my yoga teacher. (She is kind & helpful to all though this photo would not have you think so. She doesn’t like it!) Those are the Mayan temple ruins in the background.

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I enjoyed 2 days of yoga on the beach. Perhaps 90 minute slow, easy sessions.

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My favourite of the inexpensive beach resorts was Diamonte K. Unique, filled with interesting art pieces.

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Many resorts here long ago added “Eco” to their names. Next step is to add “solar” to the sign board.

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Big old iguanas are a highlight of the Tulum scenery.

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Monika and Monty, a lovely couple from the UK just starting 7 months of travel.

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Monty, Ron and Tom.

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This dog got plenty of exercise every day chasing his master’s kite.

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Beach bar with hammocks.

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Many of the cabanas are wedged into the dunes for protection against the wind. One night we got coated with a fine layer of sand.

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Should I book you a hut?

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Fishermen land here to sell lobster & fish to tourists.

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Kite surfer.

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Most evenings we caught the free hostel shuttle into town.

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Tulum town is noted as “butt ugly” in the guidebooks. But I still liked it.

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The hostel offered “burn your own barbecue” for US$3.50.

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We much enjoyed “The Weary Traveller”. One of the best hostels in Mexico, I reckon.

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One night I bought a basket of “carne” for a meat pig-out. Vegetarians were mortified.

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Another night we cooked fish on the beach. This is a home made barbecue tong.

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The highlight of Tulum for me was snorkelling a cenote.

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Finally we hit the modest Tulum ruins. Many backpackers never get around to paying the US$5 entry fee.

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The Spanish in 1518 were amazed by this city, painted vivid red, blue and yellow. It was one of the last fortresses to be abandoned.

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Many spend more time on the Tulum beach than touring the ruins. A spectacular setting.

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See the iguana checking out the bikinis?

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I would return to Tulum any time. It is a fantastic place!

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