I travelled with Mollie from Toronto from Belize through Guatemala. She’s a camp girl who can handle the challenges of the 3rd World, even surviving a rough ride on the roof of a mini-bus on a 5AM jungle departure.
In one of those common travel coincidences, Mollie bumped into Ron at a hostel in Tulum. They both work in the TV and Film industry in Toronto. The three of us hooked up for some days.
Check Mollie’s travel blog for a far more elequent and accurate version of events than my own.
It’s a work in progress. Photos will be added when she gets time on a fast enough computer.
More travellers are posting travel blogs. Or at least their photos on sites like Flick.com
Tikal is one of the great archeological sites of the world. Excellent. No one leaves disappointed.
I travelled with Ron & Mollie from San Ignacio, Belize to El Remate, Guatamala.
Ron, Molly and I — 3 Canucks fretting about the lack of offence of the Canadian men’s hockey team at the Olympics — travelled across the Belize border to see the ruins and do a US$25 jungle zip-line adventure same day.
By our first evening in Guatemala, we already loved the country. The people are charming, helpful, polite. Reserved to the point of shyness. But quick to smile and very friendly.
In 1996 a peace accord was signed ending (sort of) 36 years of civil war in Guatemala.
Ten years later, the country is perhaps the most popular in central America with travellers and volunteers. Everyone is upbeat and enthusiastic for a better future.
Tikal has more animal life than any other Mayan ruin. The highlight are dozens of pisotes (coatis), which climb like monkeys but forage on the ground.
At the gates of Tikal is what they call a canopy tour. There’s no tour. It’s a zipline course through the jungle. Mollie went first. She had done this before in Costa Rica.
Being a fast walker in Belize is a no go. Rastafarians corrected me, “Go Slow, Mon.”
After weeks complaining about Mexico, I had a jerk eating grin when crossing the border into the tiny country of Belize. This is an English speaking enclave in Latin America — though I have to admit I understand more Spanish than the Creole English spoken here!
EVERYTHING is different in Belize. I loved it.
Tourists avoid Belize City known for drug violence, street people and crack whores. They head straight for the Cayes. Belize feels more like a Caribbean island than mainland, anyway.
Backpackers like best Caye Caulker, only 6.5km long, 600m wide.
I have always been poor at not drowning. I fear all bodies of water larger and colder than a jacuzzi. That’s why I am proud of the many days snorkelling I have put together on this trip. I can relax. The highlight for me was the Marine Reserve reefs off Belize including Shark and Ray Alley.
Tulum is a Mayan walled city guarding the gorgeous Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo, Mexico. However, once tourists see this Riviera Mexicana beach, they tend to forget to visit the archaeological attraction.
Screw Cancun. Bypass Playa del Carmen. Tulum is the best beach bang for your buck on the Mexican Caribbean.
Tulum on the Riviera Mexicana, 130km south of Cancun.
I tented here 4 nights.
We also rented at least one thatch roofed cabana in which I stored my gear.
Tenting cost about US$6 / night. Cabanas run US$12 and up. A bit higher at Zazil Kin resort, your best bet.
The beach is insect free. No hassles of any kind.
Not much to do but walk the beach and snorkel out to the world’s second longest reef 400m from shore.
There were many signs of last year’s hurricane damage.
This toilet block did not survive a big blow.
Sarah, my yoga teacher. (She is kind & helpful to all though this photo would not have you think so. She doesn’t like it!) Those are the Mayan temple ruins in the background.
I enjoyed 2 days of yoga on the beach. Perhaps 90 minute slow, easy sessions.
My favourite of the inexpensive beach resorts was Diamonte K. Unique, filled with interesting art pieces.
Many resorts here long ago added “Eco” to their names. Next step is to add “solar” to the sign board.
Big old iguanas are a highlight of the Tulum scenery.
Monika and Monty, a lovely couple from the UK just starting 7 months of travel.
Monty, Ron and Tom.
This dog got plenty of exercise every day chasing his master’s kite.
Beach bar with hammocks.
Many of the cabanas are wedged into the dunes for protection against the wind. One night we got coated with a fine layer of sand.
Should I book you a hut?
Fishermen land here to sell lobster & fish to tourists.
Kite surfer.
Most evenings we caught the free hostel shuttle into town.
Tulum town is noted as “butt ugly” in the guidebooks. But I still liked it.
The hostel offered “burn your own barbecue” for US$3.50.
We much enjoyed “The Weary Traveller”. One of the best hostels in Mexico, I reckon.
One night I bought a basket of “carne” for a meat pig-out. Vegetarians were mortified.
Another night we cooked fish on the beach. This is a home made barbecue tong.
The highlight of Tulum for me was snorkelling a cenote.
Finally we hit the modest Tulum ruins. Many backpackers never get around to paying the US$5 entry fee.
The Spanish in 1518 were amazed by this city, painted vivid red, blue and yellow. It was one of the last fortresses to be abandoned.
Many spend more time on the Tulum beach than touring the ruins. A spectacular setting.
See the iguana checking out the bikinis?
I would return to Tulum any time. It is a fantastic place!
Let me poo poo the Commie conjecture of global warming.
George Bush and I agree that it is simply coincidence that last year was the warmest worldwide on record. It was a fluke that it was the worst hurricane season on record.
The folks who lived through it in the Yucatan are harder to convince.
This is the second largest flag in the world, still tattered from Wilma. As is the Mexican Caribbean coastline.
Victor was on Isla Mujares when Wilma hit October 2005. He was guiding 40 Scandinavian girls on a bike tour when the evacuation call came.
It was end-of-the-world stuff, he told. Palm trees designed to sheer in high winds were ripped out of the ground by the roots — spinning off like a child´s toy.
Officially Wilma bypassed Isla Mujeres!
The hurricane’s eye first passed over the island of Cozumel, and then made official landfall near Playa del Carmen with winds near 140 mph.
Wilma was the most intense Atlantic hurricane ever measured (based on central pressure) and one of the worst 10 of all time based on any criteria.
Lets hope the gorgeous white sand beaches can all be restored.
From Cancun a half hour ferry delivers you to Isla Mujeres — the Island of Women.
Friends had raved about a beach paradise there. But that was decades ago. I was sure it was long since ruined.
I was surprised how laid back was my reception. Not a single taxi driver or hotel tout approached me on arrival.
I went directly to Pac Na, billed as the Club Med of Mexican hostels. This is their ocean front beach volleyball bar.
Tents are pitched in quiet sandy courtyards.
I wedged my Hubba under a coconut palm.
The best of many good coffee shops was just down the street.
Hurricane Wilma did a fair bit of damage to the island. Here the sea wall is being reinforced in advance of the next big blow.
The main draw of Isla Mujeres for me was snorkeling.
This was the best snorkelling area from town. About 2 blocks walk from the hostel.
Under the docks fish congregate, protected from diving sea birds.
The water was superb even in February. Warm and crystal clear. No wetsuit needed, I thought, though many did wear one.
Graveyard.
I had not seen this particular angel pose before.
Many are disappointed by the modest main plaza. And the remarkably simple cathedral.
I quite liked the plaza. Colourful, clean, simple. I ate tacos there in the evening from street venders.
Look at the pipes on that playground trestle.
The Hemmingway bar is a classic. He was not there when I popped in.
I booked a bike tour through the hostel. Excellent and inexpensive.
The highlight was the sea turtle farm.
Eggs are protected, harvested, hatched and the turtles are kept here until almost 3-years-old. When they are released they then stand an excellent chance of survival.
We marvelled at the lovely starburst shell patterns.
The bike tour finished with a sunset visit to the far south point of the island. A sculpture garden is installed there.
A nice setting, I thought.
This is the furthest east point of land in Mexico. It sees the sun first.
When I say crappy, I mean crappy for ME — a gringo traveller.
This phrase — Mexico is a crappy country — started to ring true after I was overcharged US$20 by an otherwise lovely hotel manager. Then duped by an otherwise friendly taxi driver into taking 2 cabs instead of the one large vehicle I had requested.
Now I write this after spending 4-days on a pristine island paradise here. This land has great potential. But it is woefully underdeveloped for the most part. It is astonishing how far it lags behind big neighbour, the USA.
Seems to me Mexico has most of the worst attributes of the first and the third worlds. It’s expensive — but there is no recourse available to the customer when wronged. (Except to blog the culprits.)
A (bad) muffin cost more here than in Canada — and the bakery salesgirl systematically shortchanges you. Yeesh.
Wages are perhaps 15% of those in Canada. Yet prices are the same for most things. Where is the money going? Not to pay Mexican taxes, that’s certain.
A woman I met on a kayak tour was suffering buyer’s remorse. She recently retired. Her husband died last year. The sharks met her arriving at the Cabo airport. She bought an expensive condo from that first salesman.
In Mexico you are vulnerable if you are recently arrived, elderly, if you don’t speak Spanish.
It ticks me off.
I’m one of the few who feels that the best thing happening in Mexico is the inevitable domination of McDonalds, Wal-Mart, Applebee’s and the ilk. Efficient companies with fixed prices & quality control.
Mexico is a crappy country for the long-term traveller.
Most jet straight to raucous Cabo when they come to Baja. I am much happier in mellow La Paz.
From Mazatlan I caught the ferry.
The (expensive) trip was supposed to take 14-16 hours but it was closer to 22 hours for me. I watched 5 family movies. Have you seen Freaky Friday?
Last millennium I stayed at Pension California. They haven’t updated it since. El Cheapo = US$15 / night.
Every morning I waltzed down to Exquisito for excellent cofee & free wireless internet. I was “working” — doing a website for a client.
La Paz (the Peace) is one of the best liked cities (165,000) in Mexico. The main entertainment is strolling the waterfront Malecón.
Most of my photos are — as usual — statues.
I like this statue best. About 1/3 the entire world population of sea mammals live in the waters of Baja.
I bussed out to Tecolote beach.
From here you COULD paddle 4.5 miles to the island in the distance. I thought that was a bit dangerous. So instead of renting a kayak, I signed on with a guided kayak tour.
Sunset with rum and raison ice cream in a giant hand-made waffle cone.
Twice before I tried & failed to get to this idyllic island.
Finally made it Feb. 1-4th, 2006. 🙂
I was a client with the BOA company out of La Paz. 14 clients, 2 guides, 2 boat captain/cooks setting off on a 4-day kayak tour to Isla Espiritu Santo from La Paz, Baja, California.
The boat trip to the north end of the island was my least favourite leg. It can be noisy & choppy. Sit in the back for the most comfortable possible ride.
I was surprised to see that high cliffs surround most of the island. This face they call the “Cathedral”.
You could kayak 4.5mi from the mainland (in the distance) across the San Lorenzo channel to the island >> but it can be dangerous if the wind kicks up when you are half way across. Crosses like this one have been erected by fishermen in many of the bays.
We needed 2 boats to transport the 18 people, food & gear. One skiff we kept. The other headed back to the mainland.
Manuel grew up in the Baja, one of the top kayak guides in the region. He dreams of kayaking 800mi or more >> the length of the Sea of Cortes.
Ah! Los Islotes. These are tiny islands off the north tip. We started with the highlight of the entire tour >> snorkeling with sea lions! It was awesome.
Juveniles like to play with snorkelers. One even hugged some of our group & “kissed” them on the mask. Amazing! They are prone to nipping at the divers too, playfully in almost every case. Big bulls & older females can be aggressive. You cannot get too close to the islets.
Most snorkelers wear wet suits as the waters are still a bit chilly in winter.
The food on the BOA tour was super. Our chef “Big Al” had been with the company for over 10-years.
Cook stove.
First night we camped at Ensenada beach. I immediately took off down the Ensenada Grande hiking trail, 6km return to cross the island. VERY RUGGED. I ran out of daylight.
The harsh desert is beautiful & intimidating.
Wild fig trees were my favourite plant. They grow in cracks cold enough to generate some drops of moisture.
Every kayak tour paddles a mangrove swamp >> a fascinating, under-appreciated ecosystem.
White sand. Bright kayaks & tents. Beautiful.
The Park guards checked in with us twice. They looked to be doing a good job protecting the island.
Day 2 – setting out in typical, perfect weather. Mornings are calm. Afternoons usually bring north winds during the winter.
Permanent camp of Mar Y Aventuras (Sea and Adventures) – KayakBaja.com – the main competitor for BOA. Both companies seem to do an excellent job, offering similar itineraries.
Our BOA camp on the other side of the same beach.
This view gives you a good perspective on beach life. Foreground is a big tarp >> providing essential shade.
Happy Hour! We had Pina Colada or Margaritas every night. Non-stop beer & wine too. Whoo Hoo!
The biggest concern for many kayakers are the toilet facilities. This is the ladies pee tent. Men need “scan for whales” below the tide line.
The second toilet is marked by the blue bag: toilet paper & disinfectant alcohol gel. If the bag is visible >> the toilet is vacant.
Here is the loo for #2. It worked quite well, actually. All human waste is carried off the island. It was declared a Nature Conservancy in 2003.
Off on the skiff for another session of snorkelling. Typically we took the boat to the nearest good coral.
At each beach I took a hike into the hills. There are few trails, however. And plenty of loose scree.
There are a couple of sources of fresh water on the islands including this well at Candelero beach. Do not count on it, however! Carry enough water to get you through.
Gorgeous desert colours late in the day.
Seems the bizarre rock formations are carved by wind, not water.
On this hike we saw bats starting their evening feed.
Another amazing Baja sunset.
Isla Espiritu Santo is wonderful.
Millions of oyster shells are heaped in middens on these islands. The Spanish enslaved pearl divers for decades >> until European disease killed them.
Gear provided by BOA was excellent & up-to-date.
The most popular walks take you atop coastal cliffs for magnificient sea views.
Sea turtle rock painting.
Wear long pants when hiking in Baja. Almost everything tries to stick you!
This is the life. 🙂
Leah from Vancouver, our second guide. She learned the kayak “eskimo roll” during our tour!
The company provides both single & double kayaks for the group to share. If you prefer a single you might want to INSIST and get it in writing in advance of the tour. (We did not have enough singles on our tour.)
I trolled a trout lure from a hand reel behind my kayak. Nada! Not even a bite.
It’s essential to stay hydrated in your kayak. Safety first.
The water is incredibly clear. But in the heat of summer it is clearer yet. The best months for scuba divers are July & August.
Our hand washing station. Fresh water, pump-operated, is in the bucket.
Life is good under the big tarp.
Our cooks caught some fish. The rest was delivered by local fishermen: mackerel & bonita.
Rocky beaches are infested with a “sea cockroach” (isopod). They do not bother humans & keep the rocks spotless.
Tidal lagoon.
Cliff vista.
Our guides coming in from another session of eskimo rolling.
I will never forget the Baja sunsets.
Of the 14 clients in our group, everyone left the tour happy. One even decided to sign-up for a second BOA tour: 7-days circumnavigating the entire island.
Hope you can make it to Baja … SOON.
Our last day kayaking we had a second encounter with dolphins. One kayak got quite close.
I travelled with Mollie from Toronto from Belize through Guatemala. She’s a camp girl who can handle the challenges of the 3rd World, even surviving a rough ride on the roof of a mini-bus on a 5AM jungle departure.
When I say crappy, I mean crappy for ME — a gringo traveller.
Rick McCharles 