Category: travelogues

endless highs – New Zealand

On By Rick McIn cycling, friends, traveloguesLeave a comment

I remember once asking an American hiker the weather forecast;

Endless highs, man, endless highs.

 

rick_mugA camper van in New Zealand in their summer? What could be grander?

depart when you want

make decisions on-the-go depending on whim and weather

stop at every amazing waterfall

exit to a beach when you get a tad warm

scramble any interesting roadside boulder

sleep where and when you want

Yet after ET shouted seafood dinner at Mission Bay her last night in New Zealand, I strangely felt uneasy travelling the north island on my own. Perhaps I got civilized working with people 7 days a week in a busy gym this year. Maybe I grew used to the domestic chaos of travelling with a family in a van for a month. Odd.

auckland-harbourIt helped that I was hosted in Auckland by Kiwi Dave Phillips, 2000 Olympian gymnast who had trained in Saskatoon for a season. Dave is now a busy personal fitness trainer and seriously into outdoor pursuits. He organized some friends, ET and myself to kayak the harbour in heavy swells. Great fun though scary at times. Waiting for me as I struggled to keep up, Dave was the only one to dump (as he experimented with a bracing manoeuvre). The highlight of the trip was that ET and I were able to assist in his rescue.

pihaDave also took us to hip black sand Piha beach north of Auckland close to where The Piano was filmed. Ya, I’m a surfie now. I stood up. Twice!

Later I checked the surf south of Raglan, at Manu Bay, famous from the 1966 surf classic Endless Summer; purported the world’s longest left hand break.

I was also hosted in Auckland by Canuck Jeff Thompson and family. We explored beaches and a few of the 48 volcanic hills which make up this pretty and energetic city. Thompsons and I took in the Edmund Hillary 50th anniversary of Everest exhibit — the first time Ed has displayed his tent, clothing and such.

Jeff took me wall climbing and inspired a trip down to the climbing Mecca of South Wharepapa not yet discovered by backpackers. My first morning I flipped a mountain bike playing on the BSX (Bicycle Super Cross) course. I assumed I was incompetent until I learned that at least 2 others crashed at that same spot that day! Safety standards here are not nearly what they are in Canada — the charm of New Zealand is just how undeveloped and unregulated things are. O.S.H. (Occupational Safety and Health) is a government department much reviled by Kiwis.

FroggattFree standing Ignimbrite at Frogatt, South Wharepapa

Eventually I started to enjoy solo travel again. In fact, by the time I did a 5-day solo kayak journey down the Whanganui River gorge it was with a twinge of regret when I saw other (inevitably German or Israeli) paddlers on the water. I normally had the campgrounds to myself and was happy sharing the river only with wild goats and water birds.

BridgeThe Bridge to Nowhere

A failed attempt at farming and developing the Whanganui River wilderness.

I went back to climb Mount Doom (Ngauruhoe). After an epic backsliding scramble up scoria, I finally reached the smoking summit. This classic volcano is almost extinct by New Zealand standards — it only erupts every 5-8 years. (Mount St. Helen’s blasts every 700 years, by comparison.)

Fantastic vistas in every direction. A perfect day. Endless highs.

Oh no! Atop Mount Doom and I had forgotten The Ring!

What would you do in this situation?

I urinated.

Suddenly it struck me. I did have The Ring! The One Ring which binds the Suunto compass/thermometer to the pack! It joined many other rings in the cone.

We celebrated Waitangi Day here — the National holiday commemorating the anniversary some of the Maori chiefs signed over the country to the Brits. Needless to say, the celebration is controversial. The chiefs only agreed because they feared the French might take over instead. The British were clearly the lesser of evils.

whalerider_posterI quite like the Maori people though I cannot say I got to know any as well as I would of liked. Many around the world will learn of the culture through the touching film The Whale Rider, a People’s Choice winner. The book and movie are set in (the author’s home town) the tiny settlement of Whangara. When I toured the neglected, mellow, mostly Maori East Cape the look and feel of that movie rang true.

Sunrise at East Cape lighthouse, the most easterly point, was a highlight.

Did you hear about the cowardly Terrorist Attack in New Zealand? Is no place safe?

Bombers posing as tourists in a van picked up explosives delivered by submarine to the remote north. They drove to Auckland and blew up a ship killing one man.

The terrorists were agents of a foreign government known to have weapons of mass destruction and nuclear weapons. This nation has a history of talking tough but collapsing quickly when it comes to battle.

Two of the saboteurs were caught, others never brought to justice.

More farce than justice, the guilty bombers were detained on a gorgeous French Pacific island — and returned home 2 years later (far sooner than their sentence) to a hero’s welcome in Paris.

The French, the French,
They are a curious race …

The skeletal remains of the ship, The Greenpeace Rainbow Warrior were moved and sunk as a scuba diving attraction.

The future of backpacking adventure tourism?

New Zealand I think leads the way in the evolution of travel.

competition for the backpacker dollar will increase

e.g. ratings systems to compare hostels

quality of accommodation will continue to improve

packaged fun, convenient tourist experiences will continue to be invented

zorb (roll down a hill in a clear plastic bubble)

fly-by-wire (fly a jet attached by tether cable)

zorbTHE ROCK in the Bay of Islands is terrific example. ET and I felt we got great value paying about C$100 each for a 24 hour ship cruise; visiting 4 islands, 2 great meals, kayaking, fishing, hiking, snorkeling, target shooting off the back of the boat, eating Kina / Sea Hedgehog (sea urchin), and more.

Non-stop action on a floating bar with pool table, great music. Marketed to backpacking young people, the brochure sold me stating, no demanding upmarket suitcase tourists.

– Kiwi Rick

P.S. Perfect tourist weather (i.e. drought) continued. No pesky ozone to filter the healthful rays! Melanoma scars and leathery skin are a small price to pay for a fleeting glow.

Next episode; south island, Wild Food Festival, perfect weather on the Milford Track.

dopes on ropes – New Zealand

On By Rick McIn friends, travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

Jan 25, 2003

rick_mug

If you are one of the disadvantaged who (like Tolkien) have not traveled to New Zealand you must listen attentively while those who have rave on. Here are a few titbits to keep you in the conversation:

Lonely Planet recently ranked New Zealand the #1 travel destination in the world

Russell Crowe was born in New Zealand not Australia

Australian possums are the biggest pest

Canadian moose were once released here but are no longer pests

NZ won the past two America’s Cup yacht races

coolest place on the south island = Queenstown

coolest place on the north island = Taupo

Rick LEAP New ZealandQueenstown and Taupo are parties central for young people at New Years. They are also the centres of crazy Kiwi adventure tourism.

Adrenalin-pumping adventure activities punctuate travel in New Zealand. You can conveniently jetboat, white-water sledge, raft, boogie board, canoe, kayak, surf, snorkel, ski, bungee, skydive, abseil, tramp, bike, climb and cave — on the same day if you hurry.

We came to Taupo for the high ropes course where we could confront fear of heights; walking cables, rickety bridges, logs, leaping for a trapeze — 150 feet high. (At least it feels like 150 feet high!)

The only problem I had was the GIANT SWING; free fall from a HIGH platform praying that the pendulum of your swing will clear the ground. Is it what!

Of course we have plenty of footage for our Cirque du Soleil audition video. Our act is called dopes on ropes.

P1010470_dopesI had never heard of Taupo before coming to New Zealand. I should have. Taupo is a large lake created by a stupendous volcanic eruption 25,000 years ago. A smaller Taupo volcanic eruption AD 181 is still the most powerful eruption in historical times — there were dark skies and strange sunsets in Rome.

AD 181 … , ancient history. Right?

But on a Friday afternoon January 2001 an explosion beside the Rotorua hospital covered much of the city central park with boiling mud. Amazingly no one was killed or injured. Many downplayed the seriousness of this event as Rotorua (near Taupo) is the #1 tourist destination on the North Island — also known as Roto-Vegas.

A year later we wandered that park and found the devastation astonishing. Children still play near boiling sink holes.

Rotorua stinks. It reeks of sulphur from steam escaping from gaps in the pavement, school yards, church courtyards, everywhere. At any time the sidewalk might collapse.

Despite the Taupo region being the land of Mordor, I love the steaming volcanic weird and twisted landscape. Cool as.

We booked at a holiday camp boasting the world’s only thermally heated tent sites. Mud bubbled near the tents. The last tourist who stepped close (to retrieve his hat) was hospitalized with burns.

We used thermal steam to cook our corn, potatoes and eggs. We bathed in a scorching hot river at Kerosene Falls.

P1010014_waterfallLater we dug holes at Hot Water Beach — personal hot tubs in the sand with the ocean waves to cool you. Choice!

The highlight of the Taupo Volcanic Zone for me was the Tongariro Crossing — called the finest one-day hike in New Zealand. Up and in-between two huge volcanoes with amazing vistas all day long. Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe) looms.

lavaspikeET and I did the Crossing and climbed Tongariro. Neither of us could name a better hike anywhere.

spider_woman_smIn Waitomo we did the very popular Rap, Raft and Rock trip through the glow-worm caves.

In 1985 for ET the trip was an elderly Maori lady leading a few people at a time through the main grotto. ET returned in 2003 for an adventure!

Raft the underground river on an inner tube

Rock climb narrow tunnels and back out of the cavern
It was unique — floating silently watching a glow-worm galaxy of tiny living lights on the cave roof.

The dopes (the Fellowship of the Swing) have disbanded. ET returned to frozen Saskatoon; GC and family gone on to scorched Aussie for a few months in the sun.

minus_33Still … the dopes could re-unite if called by the Cirque.

– Kiwi Rick now flying solo

Once Were PARTYers – New Zealand

On By Rick McIn friends, travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

Dec. 31, 2002

I was never a partyer. I have always been more of a party watcher.

High School house parties I vividly recall (soundtrack Isn’t Life Strange, by the Moody Blues) convinced me that drunken gatherings merely accelerate and amplify the rhythms of regular life. Alcohol makes you less inhibited (stupider) and more vocal (stupider yet).

I was never a partyer. But GC was. For GC a night out was 6 beer and a 40 ouncer. GC travelled and drank his way down under 20 years ago. Now he is back with his family, me and ET touring New Zealand in a grey van called Thomas the Toyota.

van

GC cannot remember much from his youth binge to New Zealand — for young backpackers travel is a non-stop party.

Christmas Eve we oldsters were all asleep by 10:30 pm. Santa DOES come to the Abel Tasman Track as tiny stockings were hung by the hut chimney in the morning. Lollies for all!

Christmas Day hiking we came to a risky short cut; 20 minutes downhill via the only pub on the Abel Tasman … or 90 minutes of slogging steep up and downs with heavy packs to get to our destination. GC and I took the shortcut while the women and children sensibly went the long way around.

083_christmas_cheer

Merry Christmas to the boys with the handles!

ET was passed out exhausted by the time we sloshed into the hut. She could not even respond to the pity beer we brought her. ET had travelled New Zealand 15 years ago and is thrilled to be back for more … except for missing the pub shortcut.

The Abel Tasman hike is great.

photos of our 4 day gorgeous tropical beach walk from my digital camcorder.
more photos from GC’s digital camera.

ET_PC260263

New Years found us in funky Wellington at the terrific Cambridge Hotel Backpackers across the street from the home theatre of Lord of the Rings. Peter Jackson promised to bring the World Premier here for #3 in 2003. We watched Lord of the Rings 1 on DVD on 30 December then Lord of the Rings 2 at the gorgeous old theatre on New Years Eve.

Good film, fantastic New Zealand scenery.

Were we old folk asleep before midnight? No way! We took in the dry outdoor family New Years concert in the town square. The band played cheesy cover versions of 70s tunes by Donna Summers, Doobies, Average White Band … stuff parents would remember from their party days.

Some of us once were partyers. 🙂

New Years eve we managed to stay awake until 1:30 AM. I hid my cheap wine in the bushes to avoid confiscation by the man.

You?

Happy 2003!

– Kiwi Rick seeking Shags, Kakas, and Moreporks.

Life is Beautiful – New Zealand

On By Rick McIn Art and beauty, travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

Nov 22, 2002

I finally saw the charming film Life is Beautiful. The academy award for best actor to Italian Chaplin Roberto Benigni was well deserved.

I was convinced — if I played my cards right — I too could win a real life tank.

Life is beautiful. You simply need to put the right spin on things.

I have always been cheerfully skilled at self-delusion; looking for the positive, no regrets.

Peanut butter and banana sandwiches, Altadore Gym Club, Europe 1976, University of Calgary, Saskatoon, Mott the Hoople and the game of Life. Looking back it all seems right and wondrous to me.

pier2

Life is a beach too.

One of the best things in New Zealand is living on the sea shore — especially for me coming from the arid North American high prairie.

Strolling the flower strewn dunes of New Brighton beach. Bright sunshine. Cooling Pacific breeze. It is hard to beat.

At low tide, I often bike between home and the gym.

bike4

Did you celebrate Bonfire Night? For some reason beyond my ken, people here celebrate a terrorist named Guy Fawkes who tried to blow up the King and British Parliament in the 1600s. New Brighton pier is the centre of Fawkian revelry.

It was very Apocalypse Now with helicopters trailing fireworks, blaring Ride of the Valkyries. Rockets mounted on the pier like mortars.

pier_fireworks

My neighbourhood is the wrong side of the tracks. Drunken vandalism, garbage can fires, graffiti and like hyjinks is a typical Saturday night. We have a huge police station nearby but I have yet to see a cop outside a police car.

When I mention where I live to Kiwis many grin broadly and recount one of a number of fantastic drunks they had in New Brighton. It was once the most popular beach in New Zealand being the only one open on Sundays. It is still famed for a good piss-up.

My last month working in Christchurch, I actually will miss many things in my neighbourhood — the best veggie burger in the world; (egg, pineapple, beet root, tomato) from New Brighton Burger Bar. Mr. Wong from Hong Kong has been slapping these together for over 40 years.

Hong Kong Take-a-ways for Chow Mien … and the Chang Rai Thai lunch special. The library, watching the surfers, Jackson’s Bakery.

Ah well, Thoreau told that a man is rich in proportion to the number of things which he can afford to let alone. I can move on. My stint at the Christchurch School of Gymnastics was … beautiful. It is a great life experience to live in another country.

Friends are arriving from Canada next week — I will join them December 21st on the NZ backpacker trail.

Looking forward to the holidays?

– Kiwi Rick

Photo — an elderly Chinese man traipsed across the artwork in the sand oblivious to the beauty underfoot. Can you see his shoes?

art_shoes

Queen Charlotte Track, New Zealand

On By Rick McIn gymnastics, hiking, travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

Oct 11, 2002

A friend reminded me that life is precious. Reminded me to aspire to greatness; to be kind, patient and polite. To follow my bliss. To live every day as if it is my last.

Thank-you Denise.

I chase Captain Cook again.

I who had ambition not only to go farther than any one had done before, but as far as it was possible to go.

Captain James Cook, HMB Endeavour

Age 39, snatched from obscurity mapping Newfoundland, Captain Cook sailed in search of the Great Southern Continent.

Queen Charlotte Sound Cook made his place of refuge in the Pacific. He returned here 5 times, 100 days total, refitting his ships, tramping the same hills as I — now the Queen Charlotte Track.

I stepped ashore as Cook did first at Ship Cove.

I came to stretch my legs on this 78km 4 day walk. A tad shattered, I needed time off following the National Championships which we hosted in Christchurch. It was by any measure a quality competition.

level_8

But I left town deflated. Of the 14 athletes who competed from my club, several were disappointed with how they competed. I empathize.

Others had some great results. That is sport, I reckon. The delicious uncertainty is what keeps it interesting. (results of NZ Nationals — PDF file)

The only other to disembark at Ship Cove was Paul, a Dutch bio-chemist who had hiked Patagonia and in the NWT. (He immediately noted that the Dutch sailed New Zealand before Cook.)

We walked quickly. This sub-tropical Track is surprisingly tropical; giant ferns, waterfalls, strangling vines like steel cables. Some trees are covered with weird black lichen. The best sections are walking the spine of a long isthmus enjoying the views 400m down to the sea on both sides.

072_vista

We were parched and hungry by the time we reached the first pub. (It is difficult to find true wilderness in New Zealand.) Monteiths Black happened — we then stumbled dark pathways to our backpacker cabin. Glow worms lit the way.

We did the first 2 days together enjoying a terrific seafood meal in Ponga. (Ponga is the silver tree fern, symbol of NZ.)

I took Paul on his first kayak paddle there.

032_ponga

I later joined up with hiking tour guides from Nelson checking the Track for their customers. I heard great things about hiking in Iceland and Greenland. Even better company were the numerous Weka, another goofy, supposedly flightless Kiwi bird. They are curious, fearless thieves stealing anything shiny. We were warned not to leave our boots outside! A farmer told us Weka steal his chicken eggs every morning.

047_weka

It was a long sunny day to Portage — I did not realize I was exhausted until I arrived. A superb backpacker hostel, a gorgeous sea harbour. We shared a kitchen with 2 Kiwi hunters tracking wild pig with dogs. Cook had released the ancestors of these pigs.

Hunting is illegal here in the Marlborough Sounds but, I have to admit, wild pig bacon is tasty.

068_portage

It is great to be on the backpacker trail. This is my element. Especially in New Zealand. One welcoming hostel provides free coffee and home made bread, transportation, information, library, and movie room — $C12 / night.

I am looking forward to tramping more Lord of the Rings landscapes. It is instantly obvious that Lord of the Rings had to be filmed in New Zealand. A quick quiz;

Which of the following places are in LOTR and which are actual geographic locations in New Zealand?

Cape Foulwind?
Mount Aspiring?
Mount Doom?
Fiordland?
Middlemarch Bluff?
the Remarkables?
Mount Awful?
Mount Misery?
Dusky Sound?
The Snares?
Mount Dreadful?

(Answer at the bottom.)

You have to love a country which has a picture of Ed Hillary on the currency. (The new $20 bill features different adventure sports including kayaking and tandem skydiving.)

My friend Elaine from Saskatoon is coming in December. Also Greg Chartier and his family from Saskatoon. We will holiday together over Christmas.

I once thought I would spend 2 years in New Zealand; I have decided to spend just 1 year here. I will give up my job by Christmas, travel the country, and return on my 1-year open airline ticket.

Life is precious. Follow your bliss. Live every day as if it is your last.

– Kiwi Rick

PS Only Mount Doom is from Lord of the Rings. The other evocative place names are actual NZ geography.

Spring is Sprung / Auckland Champs

On By Rick McIn gymnastics, travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

Aug 27, 2002

rick_mugIn Christchurch they all tell you that Spring starts September 1.

I reckon that is about right. On August 20 I saw my first swimmers wading the surf. The dusting of snow on the Port Hills melted away.

On the mall workers are refurbishing empty shops. At Jacksons bakery the clerk told me summer would be full-on. She’ll be right.

My gym is built on a huge estuary of the rich Canterbury plains. Across the street, two percent of the original swamps are protected as Travis Wetlands.

pukeko3This is a sanctuary for birds including the endangered Pukeko, a creature so stupid it could only have evolved in New Zealand. Most Kiwis believe Pukeko cannot fly. Actually, they fly well but are too dim to recall this fact, preferring to dart under moving automobile wheels for protection.

A seal washed up in the river near the gym, perhaps injured. While some of the gymnasts went to take a peek we called Animal Protection.

Last weekend we travelled to the big city, Auckland, population 1.1 million. I saw only the motel and gym, however my gymnasts tell me Auckland is boring, all wanting to go to Sydney instead.

We were there for the Auckland Championships — equivalent to Provincial Championships in Canada. This year Auckland Champs was also the selection meet for NZ teams to Australia Clubs Championships in October so there was an added incentive for the girls. We had a good meet qualifying 4 of the 5 girls who trialed.

The competition was hosted in a fabulous new gymnastics sports training centre, better than any gym in Canada.

Jeff Thomson from Vancouver is moving to Auckland to work for NZ Gymnastics. Word at the meet is that he has already bought a house over the Internet.

Full-time gymnastics jobs are not numerous in NZ, but there are several open right now. E-mail me if you might be interested.

Sport in NZ is facing criticism. The medal table at Commonwealth Games looked bad; India, Kenya, Jamaica, Wales, Scotland, Cameroon, Bahamas, Wales were all surpassing us since the last Games. Imagine how this looks to Kiwis with Australia thriving. A last day flourish brought New Zealand back up to 5th on the medal table behind India — but the press was still questioning.

New Zealanders are not Aussies. They are far more different than Canadians and Americans. A recent newspaper survey found that over a third of Kiwis hate Australians. (Of course it was Rugby season.)

New Zealanders do not celebrate sport victories. I gleaned this insight within hours of arrival. When a Kiwi Rugby player scores a try it is essential to show no emotion; just the opposite of North America where half the football team does a funky dance in the end zone.

An Aussie journalist writing about the famed Kiwi All Blacks called them dark visaged, menacing, and morose … forbidden by contract to ever smile.

A bigger problem for the sports coach here is the tall poppy syndrome; anyone successful in sport or most anything is immediately chopped down by one and all. Poppies keep their heads low.

Actually, this Commonwealth Games was the second most successful ever for NZ. Kiwis won more medals than Aussies on a per capita basis. Our gymnasts finished 4th, as high up as we could have achieved. This accomplishment was celebrated, but modestly.

Finally got to the highest mountain in New Zealand, Mt. Cook. Captain Cook? Seems everywhere I go the last few years this bloke has already been there.

Hawaii? Can I get there before Cook? Some good coastal hiking I hear.

Mount Cook Village is charmingly undeveloped compared with similar resorts around the world. We listened to a folk singer and had lunch at the most famous hotel in NZ, the Hermitage. We visited with the town teacher / karate sensei and her mountain guide husband. I got some good advice on the tramps around Mt. Cook — they are poor.

We ended up at Mount Cook after being turned away from the ski hill which was closed due to wind. This was all the snowboarding we got that day.

snowboard

The Road to Oxiana published 1937 by Robert Byron (distantly related to Lord Byron) was touted as the best travel book ever written. As you know, I am attracted by hyperbole. It is good.

Best travel books? I have been reading mainly travel since 1996 — a few of the classics that jump to mind:

Wilfred Thesiger, Arabian Sands

Jonah Blank, Arrow of the Blue-Skinned God (India)

VS Naipaul’s India trilogy

Peter Matthiessen, The Snow Leopard (Himalayas)

Eric Newby, A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush

Art L. Karras, North to Cree Lake (northern Saskatchewan)

Less acclaimed is Around the World in 18 Holes by sports writers Tom Callahan and Dave Kindred. These blokes dreamed up the mother of all boondoggles; a round of golf selecting one hole from courses around the world.

For those who want to die like Bing Crosby, New Zealand is a paradise. Average green fees on the empty courses about C$17.

I must rattle me dags.

– Kiwi Rick

to Nelson, New Zealand

On By Rick McIn gymnastics, travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

July 22, 2002

New Zealand is synonymous with tramps; Abel Tasman, Routeburn, Milford. I have a map on my wall with Great Walks highlighted.

I am too busy for hiking so far, but I did finally get a Sunday afternoon walking the volcanic Banks Peninsula near Christchurch. It was misty on those ancient crater rims. I learned all about NZ stinging nettle.

Christchurch-area_sm

The top of the South island is home of the Abel Tasman coastal track, undoubtedly and deservedly the most popular and crowded hike in the country. But I was not there to tramp. I was there for the TOTS gymnastics competition in Nelson, the biggest and most important invitational in New Zealand.

Our team had won the Shield for best all-around club in 2001 and we were determined to repeat in 2002 despite the fact that North Harbour from Auckland, by far the best elite program in New Zealand, was attending this year. Shield points formula credits participation as well as performance — we managed to win again by a combination of good results … and bringing 56 competitors!

Nelson, population 52,000, is a classic tourist town packed with bars, backpacker hang-outs and hiking gear shops. I stayed an extra night to wander the streets, eat Chinese takeaway and walk along the river to the Marina at sunset.

nelson2

We earlier took gymnasts to another competition in nearby Blenheim, a small town of 26,000 renown only as the centre of the most famous New Zealand wine district. We raced past the largest winery in the country, Montana.

Aside from good wine, we travelled to Blenheim as this meet is hosted by Marlborough man Tony Quirk — one of the great characters in NZ gymnastics. Tony is a lawyer but spends most of his time as volunteer administrator, judge and coach. He runs a great club where competitive coaches are still volunteers. We stayed at Tony’s house and I had a good chance to get to know him.

The competition venue was most excellent too. It goes to show what is possible in a very small town.

venue

The highlight of this trip for me was the drive back to Christchurch on twisty highways, snow-capped mountains in the distance. We stopped several times to admire the scenery and take photographs of seals. One had somehow washed up almost on to the highway.

seal_photo

Driving New Zealand is the best way to travel. Most of the many narrow bridges are one way only.

Long Walk to Freedom, Nelson Mandela’s autobiography is a good read similar to, but not as essential as the autobiography of Gandhi. Everyone needs to read Gandhi’s book, My Experiments with Truth.

It is election time in New Zealand. The incumbent Prime Minister had her hands slapped when it was revealed that a painting she had donated to charity was signed but not painted by the politician. It seems certain she will be returned to power.

Voting with my feet.

– Kiwi Rick

New Brighton Beach – New Zealand

On By Rick McIn travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

July 1, 2002

rick_mugI was housed in Christchurch by Bill and Rae Shae, the grandparents of one of our gymnasts. They have a comfortable home overlooking the Avon river.

Rae tried to fatten me up with amazingly diverse British meals. Cooked cabbage is a staple still in New Zealand.

One afternoon Bill and I strung catgut over the peak of the roof in an effort to deter defecating seagulls. No luck. Seagulls sit where they like.

Early on I was offered a flat up high on the hills overlooking Christchurch, rubbing elbows with millionaires and All Blacks.

hill

It fell through.

Later I found a small house 1 minute walk from the Pacific, 1 minute walk from the golf course, 15 seconds walk from the Rugby club pub. It fell through too.

Finally I moved into New Brighton Student Residence, a spanking new block of student cells catering to the Asian market. Of the 10 spots available, at least 4 were grabbed by non-students or non-Asians. The location is perfect and rent low — about $55 a week.

During the World Cup the two Koreans were in a tizzy. Even the Swiss chap was cheering for Korea against Germany — of course he was chasing the Korean girl.

I walk 5 minutes to the New Brighton pier every day via Jacksons Bakery.

new_brighton_pier

New Brighton Pier was built 1894, demolished 1964. One of many so far unsuccessful renewal projects, a new 300 metre long tourist pier was opened in 1997. The Pier Terminus building houses the modern New Brighton Library where you can sit and read overlooking the sea in a living room ambiance. I love it.

Fishers — including a student in my building — reel in Red Cod, Dog Fish and Mullet.

My first day in Christchurch I had happened on New Brighton — the closest beach to the gym. I immediately wanted to live there. I will look for a larger place nearby when the weather warms.

New Brighton beach is often deserted during the winter. I get the pier and the beach to myself in the evening.

The heart of New Brighton is a rundown pedestrian mall. It has a dilapidated charm. Eccentrics, Asian tourists and riffraff windowshop Two Dollar stores. Many businesses are out-of-business or possibly just emptied for winter.

We had a BLIZZARD on June 15th. Civic panic. Kids ordered home from the gym early. I did not actually see a flake myself but apparently there was avalanche risk in other parts of the city.

My disbelief regarding blizzards in Christchurch was dispelled when I saw a home video from 1992 — a foot of snow along the Avon river. Big snow fell in 1945 and 1918. The worst was 1867 when at least half a million sheep died.

estuary
view over the Avon River estuary

Ciao for now. Happy Canada Day!

– Kiwi Rick

Christchurch – New Zealand

On By Rick McIn food, travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

rick_mugQuaint Christchurch is a very nice city. I expected Vancouver-like rain but this is one of the driest areas in NZ protected from moisture-laden Westerlies by the Southern Alps. Five metres of rain / year fall on the West coast; only .75 metres in Christchurch on the East coast.

Christchurch reminds me of Calgary when I see the snowy Alps in the distance as I cycle to the gym along the river, passing horses and large numbers of aquatic birds.

mountains

With a population 330,000 Christchurch is a relaxed place. Traffic is light. It is known as the most English of NZ cities; punts on the Avon river; Anglican Christ Church cathedral in the city square; Elizabethan-style riverside homes; massive Botanical Gardens. (Brits established these amazing parks all over the Empire.)

This is a city of single family dwellings. I have yet to see an apartment block. Many of the shops are converted homes. Kiwis are suspicious of big box stores (no doubt a losing battle). All the local Daries (convenience stores) are independently owned — 7-11 has not come to Christchurch.

Christchurch has fantastic bus service, the central bus depot better than most airports. Bus drivers are often called by their first name by passengers.

Christchurch is a popular tourist town. There is a good Museum and a unique International Antarctic Centre used to warehouse NZ, US and Italian Antarctic supplies. Christchurch is a centre of the Arts and audiences turn out en masse for just about any kind of entertainment.

There are good city walks in the Botanical gardens, along the river and even better on the hills of the nearby Banks Peninsula, a volcanic area. A visit to the French harbour town of Akaroa on the peninsula is the most popular day trip from Christchurch.

moorehouse

Christchurch is very white, very British. It feels more like England than Australia. All school children wear uniforms.

The largest minority is Maori though Asians are more visible. In my gym club we only about 10 Maori and Pacific Islanders out of 800+. We have many more Asians. NZ is tremendously popular with Asian tourists and students too.

New Zealanders pride themselves on being tolerant non-racists. I find them more racist than Canadians — though Canada is by far the least racist country I know, another reason for Canuck pride.

Crusaders Rugby

Rugby fans in Christchurch are known as one-eyed for their inability to see any other franchise than their own beloved Crusaders. The Crusaders finals win over the Canbera Brumbies in the Super 12 resulted in civic madness. Undefeated this season, the Crusaders shattered league records. When you speak to a Kiwi, make sure you don’t make the faux pas of confusing Rugby with Rugby League. (Wouldn’t your face be red!)

15 Crusaders were named to the All Blacks, the revered Kiwi National Team; to the Rugby World Cup. The Black Ferns (women’s Rugby) recently took the female World Cup in Barcellona. By the way, the National basketball team is called the Tall Blacks. I reckon we should call the NZ National Gymnastics team the Small Blacks.

ANZAC Day is equivalent to Remembrance Day. New Zealand military might is equal to Canada except that Kiwi peace keepers do a fierce Maori war dance which frightens away enemies without wasting ammunition.

Am I learning anything in New Zealand? Not a wee bit! Heaps I reckon.

Language barrier

I understand Kiwi english only haltingly. Kiwis flatten vowels, confusing me no end. They pronounce “Rec” (as in Recreation) as “Rick”. Every time someone mentions “Rec” at the club, I think they have called me. Kiwis call greasies, their national cusine, “Fush and Chups” (fish and chips).

Guide to NZ English:

buggered (means exhausted)
fanny (means female genitalia)
jumper (means woolen sweater)
tea (means tea)
tea (means dinner)
shagger Clinton (means Bill Clinton)
bach or crib (means a family cabin)
boozer (means bar)
metalled road (means gravel road)
flog or nick (means steal)
tramp (means hike)
judder bar or raised threshold (means speed bump)
wopwop (means remote)
lolly (means candy or any sweet)
drink driving (means drunk driving)
Mexican wave (means The Wave in a sport stadium)
My Roots clothing is a bit risque as to root means to shag.

I often wrongly use Australian or British slang further confusing communication. New Zealanders abreviate many words (Steinie for Steinlager) but not nearly as many as Australians.

I am a Pakeha (Maori for non-Maori).

New Zealand is a bilingual country — English and Maori. It is helpful to learn a few Maori words as many of the place names are in Maori including Taumatawhakat … ngihangakoauauotamate … turipukakapikimaungahor … nukupokaiwhenaukitanatahu (longest place name in the world?).

For example, Urewera is named for the words burnt (wera) genitals (ure). Kaitangata is named for eat (kai) people (tangata). Knowing some Maori is helpful, you see.

Food

Not long ago you could not find perked coffee in New Zealand. Even today instant coffee is standard fare everywhere.

Lest you be dissuaded to visit, know that Starbucks is down under. In fact at the world famous (locally considered boring) Cathedral Square, the hub of tourist Christchurch, you can buy an exotic bagel and drink Starbucks. Overpriced gourmet coffee is everywhere in fact.

Gymnastics in New Zealand

On By Rick McIn gymnastics, travel, traveloguesLeave a comment

May 27, 2002

rick_mugGymnastics here is surprisingly similar to gymnastics in Canada. The sport is not much less evolved in NZ though the Kiwi population numbers fewer than 4 million. However there are not many modern gymnastics facilities.

My gym is BUSY — as we speak 840 members a week plus drop-in and over 600 kids each week in school programs.

We have over 140 competing; WAG (women’s artistic gymnastics), MAG (men’s artistic gymnastics) and a few Trampolinists.

In New Zealand many more kids compete than in Canada. Club revenue from those competing equals the revenue brought in by recreation. Gymnastics is a much less elitist sport here — I prefer the NZ model. It is much easier to get to Nationals here than it is to get to Western Canada Championships, for example.

Carla
Carla

I am Head Coach of all and personal coach of 19 girls age 11 to 17 as well as 3 male gymnasts age 15 – 22. I have no “partner” coach with the girls though I work with 4 or 5 other very experienced part-time coach / judges. There is never a dull moment.

Our upstart boys competitive program is rocking. We will need a dedicated men’s coach by next season latest.

splits

I arrived at the worst possible time — only a month prior to the start of the competitive season which runs May through to Nationals in September. Most competitions in our region are hosted in our gym as it is an ideal competition venue. I will not need to travel much.

Our gym is organized; the staff is dedicated and over-worked. Many nights we are short coaches. We are always looking to hire.

Our gym was the Pacific Alliance championships training venue and training facility for the Canadian team staging for the 2000 Olympics in Sydney. There is a strong affection for Canadian gymnastics here. To my surprise there was another Canadian coach when I arrived, Kendra Wilke ( coached Rec at U of Calgary) who is in New Zealand as National Short-track Speed Skating coach. Kendra coached the Olympics Salt Lake City.

I did not get to meet my predecessor Alexander (Sasha) Pozdniakov.

Laura Smit
Laura Smit

Laura Smit is the top gymnast in the club, age 14, brilliantly artistic but still struggling to meet the very tough FIG requirements this code.

Laura is the only carded (National team) athlete from the South Island, ranked 6th in selection for the 5-member Commonwealth Games team. (NZ may only send 4 gymnasts or fewer.)

haley_doubleOther top gymnasts in the club include team captain Hayley (doing the double back) and Karry, a 17-year-old who has finished high school but who is going strong, still improving.

The gym has great potential. Obviously we have a great base. Other clubs in town do not train Senior gymnasts, sending them to us when the athletes outgrow their facilities.

There are far fewer overweight children in NZ than in Canada though no doubt Kiwis are making chase. Gymnasts here make no effort to hide McDonald French fry cartons when they arrive at the gym. Fish and chips is a staple for families.

The gym is in a marvellous setting between a park and a golf course / tiered driving range. We are part of the largest multi-sport complex on the South Island. I spend a fair bit of time at the nearby Academy of Sport which provides me all manner of high tech computer and video toys.

I have connected with coach education people at NZ Gymnastics and expect to be teaching courses by July. I have not judged as yet but am scheduled for the next competition. I really do not have much time to judge.

National Championships is concluded in Canada, but you are all invited to Kiwi Nationals in Christchurch, September 25 – 29th! See you there.

Ciao for now.

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Getting fit, having fun in Christchurch