sacred lakes of Gokyo

Revered by Hindu and Buddhist are a series of high altitude lakes. Very tranquil.

Late November they are freezing, groaning and moaning like some distressed beast.

To visit each I walked up the glacier towards my old friend Cho Oyu, the friendliest 8000+m peak. Eleven years ago we did the same thing, walking towards Cho Oyu from the Tibet side.

It was dark by the time I got back to Gokyo Resort. Mine was the finest room in the last village before Tibet. Expensive at $3. But I’m worth it.

Flying back to Kathmandu tomorrow. My 17 day trek ended.

From Starbucks, Lukla, Nepal.

from Namche Bazaar

Day 3 of my Everest trek.

I’ve reached Namche, famed Tibetan trading post and high altitude staging centre.

Namche-Rick

That’s the view outside my window. A little guy, 6187m. … I’d forgotten how HUGE are the Himalayan peaks.

I’ll stay another night here at 3420m to acclimatize. I’m only 10hs walk from a 5535m pass.

Surprisingly, I really like Namche. It’s got character.

The only sour note is the Bazaar. Every Saturday morning everyone from the Khumbu meets here. Tibetan traders dominate the scene. They’re agressive young guys, … chain smoking, talking tough.

Monkey Temple, Kathmandu

My favourite spot in the polluted city is Swayambhunath. I love watching these guys.

… an ancient religious complex atop a hill … It is also known as the Monkey Temple as there are holy monkeys living in parts of the temple …

Monkey Temple, Kathmandu (Swayambhunath Stupa)

It’s so ancient that legend tells that the Buddha himself taught here.

Monkey Temple, Kathmandu (Swayambhunath Stupa)

Though a Buddhist stupa and monastery, there are just as many Hindu pilgrims.

Each morning most visitors are making religious devotion, the rest are exercising. Only a few Western tourists arrive by dawn.

The early morning light filtered by polluted skies is ideal for photos.

Monkey Temple, Kathmandu (Swayambhunath Stupa)

Monkey Temple, Kathmandu (Swayambhunath Stupa)

see the rest of my pics from this visit to the Monkey Temple

why 12 different electrical plugs worldwide?

This post for people who travel internationally. …

Gizmodo posted the best explanation I’ve ever seen.

Giz Explains: Why Every Country Has a Different F#$%ing Plug

500x_Plug_confusion_2

… Is There Any Hope for the Future?

No. I talked to Gabriela Ehrlich, head of communications for the International Electrotechnical Commission, which is still doing its thing over in Switzerland, and the outlook isn’t great. “There are standards, and there is a plug that has been designed. The problem is, really, everyone’s invested in their own system. It’s difficult to get away from that.” …

Strangely, the article doesn’t address solutions.

Here’s what I’m using.

fujifilm-worldwide-travel-plug-tp_5675460384837955532vb

This adaptor “works” in about 150 countries. Sold by Fujifilm, it’s the main one available (greatly overpriced) in airports right now. Spend the extra couple of bucks for the one with a USB port if you frequently charge an iPod or other USB device.

In North America, I always carry one of these 3 prong to 2 prong adapters on my laptop cord. It’s amazing how many times it’s saved me in older buildings that only have 2 prong outlets.

3-to-2-adapter

Slightly dangerous, I understand you can no longer buy these in Canada. But God Bless the U.S.A., you can still get them there.

Durbar Square, Kathmandu

I tried to play the gallant world savvy traveler, inviting 2 young Canadian tourists to ride from the airport to Thamel with me. I’d show them the ropes in chaotic Nepal.

Durbar Square, Kathmandu

I needn’t have worried. One of the girls had been volunteering in India for the past 10 months. She was far more capable of managing the chaos than I.

Here are some pics from historic Durbar Square.

Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Feeding the sacred cows …

Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Pidgeons and dogs are not sacred. But they get far more of the offerings than the cows.

Durbar Square, Kathmandu

more Kathmandu photos

Kathmandu – first photos

Slept 12hrs. Arose at dawn to explore the streets of Thamel.

I’m pleased to report that Kathmandu has not been “ruined”. It’s exactly as crazy, loud and chaotic as when I was last here, 1998. Hindu ladies are up early at neighbourhood shrines. Litter is swept into piles … but only to make eating garbage more convenient for the dozens of sickly looking stray dogs.

Holy cow. What a memorable place.

Thamel, Kathmandu

I took a Buddhist from Mexico, who arrived on the same flight, to storied Kathmandu Guest House for morning coffee. (He had chai.)

Wonderful cafes, books stores, trekking gear shops. The smell of incense. I’m happy.

Thamel, Kathmandu

related – my last post from N.E.P.A.L. (Never Ending Peace And Love) in 1998

joys of hitchhiking

I hate hitching.

But, as a hiker, it’s fairly often that I find myself standing roadside with a backpack, trying to look harmless. Attempting to be empathetic with the people in each vehicle that passes me by. Likely I’d not stop for myself.

In Maui two brave ladies from Vancouver picked me up. I ended up spending most of the day with them, touring the island.

One of the ladies was doing travel research for an article to be published in the Edmonton Journal. We stopped first at Alii Kula Lavender Farm, not an attraction I would find or ever hear about if I was on my own. But actually it was very interesting. We even had lavender coffee at their restaurant.

lavender3

The ladies led me to Ichiban Okazuya.

Ichiban Okazuya restaurant, Maui

Although this place is a hole in the wall, without any indoor seating, this is my favorite Japanese take out place on Maui. During the lunch rush, you will see locals (usually office people) lined up outside for their plate lunches. …

more reviews on Yelp

Prices are insanely inexpensive for Hawaii, the food authentic and filling. It’s only open 5hrs/day, 5days/wk. We ate outdoors.

Ichiban Okazuya restaurant, Maui

Next the ladies took me to several speciality shops (antiques, hand made dresses, local crafts) on Market Street, Wailuku. All were very interesting I’m shocked to admit.

Worse, I’d stayed at Banana Bungalow Hostel on Market Street for 4 days … and never noticed any of the 3 unique shops nor the nearby Ichiban Okazuya takeout. Some traveler I am …

A terrific day all thanks to hitchhiking. I’ve got to be more open-minded about hitching in future. And pick up more hitchhikers too.

Wailuku-map

Run down Wailuku town in Maui is way underrated. I’m very happy I stayed there for my second week. Very few suitcase tourists ever get there.

fly Emirates Business Class

Got bumped to Business for a 5hr leg of my long, long trip. Sweet.

EmiratesInterior_wideweb__470x310,0

Emirates is one of the best airlines in the world. Switching from crappy United Airlines to superb Emirates reminded me of what’s been lost in North America.

The flying waitresses on United make it conspicuously obvious that they are ignoring you as much as they can, instead chatting at the back of the plane. On Emirates, even in coach, the staff still fawn on your every need.

Emirates was the first airline to introduce a personal entertainment system on a commercial aircraft after introducing the world’s first seat-back screens in 1992. They’ve won the award for best In-Flight-Entertainment from Skytrax for their ICE system every year since the systems inception in 2003.

600 channels of entertainment shown on a 43cm wide personal TV screen. Over 100 movies on demand including a few current releases.

Emirate’s growth has never fallen below 20% a year. In its first 11 years, it doubled in size every 3.5 years, and has every four years since. They are very profitable.

I’m right now overnighting in the VIP lounge at the airport in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Cost US$15 inclusive of wifi, food, drinks, shower. Man it’s great to be back in the developing world!

Waiter … I’ll have another sweet lassi.

♫ … I think I’m going to Kathmandu … ♫

I think I’m going to Katmandu,
That’s really, really where I’m going to.
If i ever get out of here,
That’s what I’m gonna do.
K-k-k-k-k-Katmandu …

Bob Seeger – lyrics

Stupa

People often ask me, “What’s your favourite travel destination?”

Usually I reply, Nepal. As a hiker Nepal is nirvana. And their blend of Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism and Tourism makes a rich Chai.

Downside?

Perhaps 60hrs in transit. IF I’m lucky.