Bikepacking Patagonia – day 3

Jan 16, 2019 – 85km – Change in planned itinerary.

day 0 | 1 | 2

It had rained on and off most of the night. Happily the liquid sunshine quit when I got up.

A little friend came to visit my camp.

Weather was clearing.

I finally hit some rough road. 30km of gravel, mostly steep up and downs. ☹️ Not to mention the goat traffic.

By the time I got to the ferry at Caleta Puelche, I had decided to change my plan. Instead of continuing south on the undeveloped Carretera Austral, I’d detour to the island of Chiloe.

Instead of many days of rough roads and no amenities, I’d be on pavement enjoying the occasional hostel, hot shower and excellent supermarket. 😎

I’d decided not to do the entire CA because the last 600km sounds like 10 days of NOT FUN. Therefore I’ve got more time to detour off the main road and enjoy the sights.

Dave Adlard assured me this magic bracelet would keep me on the bike when I really, really wanted to quit. 🙄

It doesn’t work, Dave.

The ferry system in Patagonia is impressive. And inexpensive. And efficient.

I was back in civilization on the other side.

On the other hand, I was headed to Puerto Montt.

Though I’d originally planned to miss Puerto Montt, I ended up staying overnight.  Only 22km from where I started. 🙄

It’s got a bad reputation as a rough port town. Locals call it Muerto Montt, meaning ‘Dead Montt’.

Still, it does appeal to me in a few ways.

The location of the bus station is stunning. It’s no problem to wait on your next ride, as most travellers are doing when they get here.

The waterfront is well done. And fun.

As the only good hostel in town was full I stayed instead in inexpensive, friendly Hostal Jacob .

Definitely not 100% healthy, I wanted my own room.

I was really tired for the last 20km into town, resting frequently at bus stops where I could sit.

I’ll take it easy for the next 2 days en route to Ancud.

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Published by

Rick Mc

Career gymnastics coach who loves the outdoors, and the internet.

4 thoughts on “Bikepacking Patagonia – day 3”

  1. Hey Rick,

    Skipping the section around Hornopiren is a good idea, it wasn’t all that interesting with mostly construction. Definitely all gravel. A local guide of the CA, on motorcycles, I met here in Futaleufu recommended going back via Chiloe to me. He said there were some good hikes and penguins to see there.

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