cycling Athol ID to Newport WA

July 23, 2019 – day 14

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

After a glorious week off hosted by the Adlards, it was finally time to resume my Pacific N.W. bikepacking adventure.

I had decided to head north to join the Kettle Valley Rail Trail in B.C.

Departing, Jeni and Dave led me on the longer, hillier, more scenic route north from Dave’s house to Sandpoint.

Jeni was just back from Europe. One highlight was via ferrata in the Dolomites.

Wild turkeys.

Dave had a turnaround time. He and Jeni raced back to his house.

Laer I got stuck behind a stopped train.

For some reason I thought this was a pedestrian bridge across the lake into Sandpoint. Unfortunately it’s TRAINS ONLY. I had to backtrack.

Click PLAY or watch the morning on YouTube.

I took a long break in Sandpoint delaying getting back under the hot sun.

In fact it was a bit of a struggle carrying on with a narrow shoulder and a Great White headwind.

Only 5 miles of Highway 2 departing Sandpoint is on dedicated non-motorized trail.

Tired and hot, I took frequent breaks.

Finally, I set up in National forrest.

Click PLAY or watch the afternoon’s ride on YouTube.

During the night we had a huge lighting storm. A bit scary in a tent, it was a show.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

cycling the Kettle Valley Rail Trail

After an indulgent week in Couer d’Alene with the Adlards, I’m planning to continue my cycling trip on the famed Kettle Valley Rail Trail.

I’ll head north starting Tuesday.

cycling eastern Washington State

July 14, 2019 – days 12-13.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 2324 | info | video

I was up early at my wild camp between road and cattle fence.

Near Sprague Lake I happened past a baby bird staying motionless on the roadway. Seems it had become separated from the Mom.

Eastern Washington State is interesting. There are a lot of old trucks, some operational.

And how can there be so many trains? Are they all headed to Seattle?

As I’d given up on the Great American Rail-Trail I took, instead, a variety of backcountry roads and non-motorized trails.

Actually I got trail advice from the first GART hiker I’d met. (Now retired, he now plans to wander the USA and Canada with his dog Oreo.)

Columbia Plateau Trail
Fish Lake

For some reason there was a gap on the Columbia Plateau Trail … but I found a way to squeeze through.

Later I had problems with my bike. Somehow, somewhere I’d broken 3 spokes.

Is this a bike shop?

It was a long day, but a good day — aside from the spokes.

The bike still rolled but was quite noisy and wobbly.

No matter how much I drank, I could not urinate. 😕

Is that a bad sign?

In these flatlands it wasn’t easy to find a discrete place to camp. Happily I came upon this old foundation sunk into the ground.

Click PLAY or watch the ride on YouTube.

_________

Next morning I tried taping up my broken spokes so they made less noise.

It worked, but not well.

Luckily the farm highway was nearly deserted.

I wobbled my way into the town of Plummer, Idaho and called Dave Adlard in nearby Couer d’Alene. Could he come pick me up?

Dave did rescue. But it was one of he busier days of his life. 🤔

I waited at the Gateway restaurant. And enjoyed a 19,000 calorie breakfast.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

cycling Moses Lake to Sprague Lake WA

July 13, 2019 – day 11.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

Dullest day, so far.

Since I had a motel the previous night, I stayed until check-out at 11am.

Breakfast and coffee were included with the $60 room.

After yesterday’s long, hot ride I felt I should cut the number of hours in the sun today. I didn’t really get going until Noon.

I’d planned to resume the Great American Rail-Trail but found the track too sandy. It really requires a fat bike. I quit after about a mile.

Parallel at that point was a canal path. Better, but still difficult to pedal.

Finally I headed for the empty secondary highways.

This farmland is pretty. But I didn’t stop to take many photos.

I set my sights on reaching Plummer, Idaho, the start of the Great American Rail-Trail in that State. It’s called Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes.

On a break I took some selfies.

The small farm towns of eastern Washington State are very quiet. There must be inexpensive houses for sale.

Gas, Food, Dope.

Looking to stop about 8pm I found a nice, quiet spot between a farm road and the fence.

Click PLAY or watch today’s ride on YouTube.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

cycling Ellensburg to Moses Lake WA

July 12, 2019 – day 10.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

A cyclist had earlier warned me to prepare for disappointment on the so-called Great American Rail-Trail Washington State.

And I was disappointed today.

Twice I was turned back at points on the where bridges were impassable. You can see where I backtrack on my route video.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

My first roadblock came right at the beginning of the day. The bridge over the I-90 was out.

Without hopping fences that meant a 6 mile detour. But a detour including coffee and bacon on a stick!

Farm country has a lot of fences. And other impediments to cycling.

On the other side of the bridge the GART continues on to Army land — Joint Base Lewis McChord. It did not look welcoming. One tunnel MIGHT be closed on that 22 mile section.

I decided, instead, to detour via the I-90 stopping at the Wild Horse Wind and Solar Facility.

The I-90 is not all that bad. It has a very wide shoulder.

Once reaching the gorgeous Columbia River I tried to rejoin the Great American Rail-Trail.

Once again, no go. The bridge over the river was out. 😕

I backtracked again now forced to cross the Columbia on the I-90. Not good. There is no shoulder at all crossing the bridge.

Look — the railstotrails.org website is lousy. Not up-to-date.

Not having their own app they rely instead on TrailLink, also lousy.

The Great American Rail-Trail is more of a concept than a thing. 

I decide to skip the next section as well trying to resume (last chance GART) at Warden past Moses Lake.

I road the service roads beside the I-90 freeway. Not much shoulder but hardly any traffic.

By the way, there is a town called George, Washington.

This is lush cropland. Lots of potatoes. Lots of corn.

This was my longest, hottest day so far. On a whim I decided to get a cheap motel in Moses Lake.

For dinner I followed the crowd over to Chevron.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

cycling Snoqualmie to Ellensburg WA

July 11, 2019 – day 9.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

I’d camped close to the Snoqualmie Tunnel in the Cascade Range.

Nearby was Keechelus lake. Many trees had been killed when the dam allowed more water.

Aside from Snoqualmie, the world’s longest biking tunnel, there are 5 more on the Iron Horse Trail.

Much of today’s ride downhill to the drier flatlands was near the Yakama river.

The Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad went bankrupt ceasing operations in about 1980. Washington State acquired the line creating the Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail in place of the rails.

The stations and stores that serviced the trains are now mostly abandoned.

I was impressed to see a slow cook Bar-B-Q place in the former Cle Elum train station.


The Great American Rail-Trail has clearly not yet caught on. In two days I met only two other long distance cyclists. From Japan, they’d come from Reno, planned to cross to Seattle, then work their way south to California.

I’d seen surprisingly little animal life in the mountains. The flatlands are better.

Sadly I saw, for the second time in my life, a juvenile Bald Eagle. On the ground it was quite defenceless. I’m assuming something went wrong while it was learning to fly.


There were many grouse. And lizards. And gophers.

Also farm animals in abundance.

It was a very windy day. Happily the wind was at my back.

In the temperate rain forest I could camp pretty much anywhere. Here in farmland it was far more difficult to find a discrete spot.

So far, so good. I feel fine after the last 2 long cycling days. Not a wreck yet.

Click PLAY or watch today’s ride on YouTube.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

cycling Victoria to Port Townsend, WA

July 6-7, 2019 – day 4-5.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 1415 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

It was great to catch up with friends in Victoria, likely the best cycling city in Canada.

I stayed mostly on the Galloping Goose and Lochside trails.

One stop was the new Gymnastics club — Inspire Sports. Very impressive.

I happened past Michell Airpark, the local remote-control flying club. Models like this can cost thousands of dollars. They fly about 8 minutes.

Each August they host Victoria’s Largest Little Airshow, a charity event.

I caught a late ferry from Sidney delivering me to Anacortes on Fidalgo island just at dark.

Happily the Washington Park campground, up from the ferry landing, had hiker / cyclist campsites for $10. Free hot showers.

I’d hoped to get to the USA in time for the 4th of July.

Just missed it.

I’d cycled these islands on a previous trip so wasn’t much motivated to make a lot of stops. Also, my good weather was deteriorating.

I did do a short hike in Sharpe Park up to Sares Head Overlook.

The highlight — as it was last time I cycled here — was Deception Pass, strait separating Whidbey Island from Fidalgo Island.

George Vancouver gave it the name “Deception” because it had misled him into thinking Whidbey Island was a peninsula.

I stopped at Deception Pass State Park for a bite to eat. And stumbled on to a new adventure sport — tree climbing.

A company called AdventureTerra was teaching a beginner course: 4 hours for $170. Looks like fun.

Cycling the islands is lovely, even in the rain.

It’s a short, easy ferry directly to Port Townsend. Victorian houses, much history and a vibe supportive of the environment and human rights.

Also wine.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 1415 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

cycling Shawnigan Lake to Victoria

July 5, 2019 – day 3.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

People are wonderful. 🙂

I’d left my GoPro behind on the trail yesterday. Kim found it. Scrolled through the  camera settings and found my email address. Then took the time to let me know.

Luckily GoPro is not password protected. 🙂

#PayItForward

I’d wild camped near Shawnigan Lake.

Wildflowers are definitely one of the highlights.

Banana slugs one of the weirdest creatures.

I’d read that today’s ride would be hilly. How bad could it be?

Hilly is an understatement. I can’t recall that much up and down in a day.

Assessment = I’m NOT king of the mountains. There was plenty of pushing my heavy rig up 17% grades.

Most of the dedicated non-motorized was NOT rail to trail. But some was.

It was a relief to reach greater Victoria ending my (excellent) section of the The Great Trail.

I took the time to scramble steep Mt Wells before joining the Galloping Goose into Victoria to visit friends.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

cycling Duncan to Shawnigan Lake

July 4, 2019 – day 2.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

The main theme of my Pacific N.W. bikepacking  tour is rail to trail.

Kinsol Trestle

Day 2 I was on the bike shortly after 7am.

Aside from the usual, lovely temperate rain forrest, this first section included some beautiful ponds.

The wildflowers are lovely too.

Motivation was reaching Tim Horton’s in Lake Cowichan.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

After breakfast I toured the town of Lake Cowichan, my first visit.

But the main reason people come to hike or ride the Cowichan Valley trail are trestles.

They are spectacular.

Best of all is Kinsol Trestle (named by nearby “King Solomon Mines”).

Completed in 1920, its one of the highest wooden railway trestles in the world at 44 m (144 ft) high and 188 m (617 ft) long.

It was repaired and reopened July 28, 2011.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Day 1 | 2 | 3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12-13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24info | video

Lake Cowichan, Vancouver Island

Surprisingly, I’d never visited Lake Cowichan.

Lake Cowichan is at the western end of the Trans Canada Trail, which, when completed, will be one of the longest trail networks in the world.

It looks like my kind of town. Funky.

Plenty of outdoor adventure.

Visit Lake Cowichan.