Unforgettable Things To Do Before You Die – kayak Baja

paradise

The highlight of my 4-day trip was snorkeling with sea lions at Los Islotes. They hugged & kissed us. Wow!

I wasn’t too worried when one took a love bite at my knee cap. (Rangers told us they have only had to evacuate one bleeding tourist back to La Paz, so far.)

White sand beach camps, desert canyons adorned with hanging fig trees, snorkelling with tropical fish, towering rock cliffs, sea caves, ringtail cats, leaping manta rays. That’s what I’m talking about.

Writing the travel adventure book Unforgettable Things To Do Before You Die (2005) authors Steve Watkins & Clare Jones were personally guided by Manuel — also my guide in 2006. I should write a book too! Or at least post a website on how to kayak Isla Espiritu Santo. …

Rick\'s shadow

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Next travelogue on this trip >> La Paz, Baja

travelogue – Mazatlán old town

Mazatlán became uncool with travellers over the years, usurped by upstart PV (Puerto Vallarta).

One thing I like about Maz is that it is a real city, with an economy outside tourism. It is a major port, a fishing centre, an agricultural centre.

For our last night in Mazatlan we moved out of the beach resorts (seen in the distance) to the “old town”. Many gringo tourists never see “el centro”.

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The original harbour & townsite was built here. El Faro (the lighthouse) on the rocky point is one of the highest in the world.

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Years ago I visited the gymnastics club downtown. The space was vacant in 2006.

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Bar atop the Posada Freeman hotel with a great sea view.

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The gates of Hell? The sign says “Devil”.

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We speculated (wildly) that ice for fish may have once been stored deep in the mountain.

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The shoreline promenade for tourists provides a series of statue photo-ops.

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Dolphins cavorting.

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The Inn at Mazatlan must have adopted this statue as their logo.

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Parked outside a local college.

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The old town is brightly painted. Old Maz reminds me of places in Europe.

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Artists, especially bohemian gringo artists, have reclaimed the downtown in a big way.

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Cathedral in the main plaza.

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I booked a small B&B called El Meson de Cynthia. WARNING – get a quote in writing before making a reservation. The otherwise kindly manager added US$10 / room AFTER we checked in.

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Music is the main focus of Plazuela Muchado. We had an outdoor dinner there on a Saturday night. The famous Angela Peralta theatre was not open that night.

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The $10 cot at El Meson de Cynthia was useless. Randy slept on the floor instead.

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A famous actor-statue.

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Dancers on the central plaza.

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I rolled my ugly dog up to the Belmar, the BEST hotel in Mazatlan. (In 1922.) It fell out of favour after the State Governor was shot dead at a fiesta there.

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It was rundown but very good, I thought. They are starting to think about remodelling on advice from regular guests like Jack Kerouac.

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The Belmar pool needs some work.

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NEXT? I take the ferry to La Paz, Baja. 🙂

warning – Mexican Dental Vacation

Many travel to Mexico to get dental work done. They walk around reeking faintly of clove.

I had fillings done a number of years ago, very happy with the cost as is almost every tourist getting work done here.

This time my needs were more complex: root canals, post, crowns.

There are now so many dentists in Mazatlán catering to gringo teeth that I had trouble deciding which to visit. The Inn at Mazatlán concierge recommended English speaking Dr. Gilberto Cardenas Saucedo.

He did 2 root canals over 3 appointments. Saucedo’s work seems good to me. But ultimately I was disappointed.

As is so often the case in Mexico, there was confusion over the cost. I thought I was getting a post & crown as well. Later he informed me I was getting the root canals only. I paid about US$210 each for the root canal. A post & crown would cost about another US$300. This cost is not much less than I would pay in Canada. And you have absolutely no recourse in Mexico if the job goes wrong.

My mistake was not getting a stronger referral before choosing a dentist. My mistake was not getting a quote in writing before starting the job.

I still believe in Mexican Dental Vacationing. But next time I will do more homework first.

UPDATE: This price for a root canal turned out to be quite competitive. But other dentists are much more up front with total costs for their work than Dr. Gilberto Cardenas Saucedo.

Next travelogue on this trip >> Mazatlán old town.

travelogue – McCharles family photos, Mazatlán

My nuclear family played “Mexican Train” nearly every night. That’s a game requiring dominos, luck & alcohol.

As I recall it was my modest self who won most nights.

Between games we mostly read, lounged by the pool & walked the beach.

Mom on the beach

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Next travelogue on this trip >> Mexican dental vacation.

travelogue – Emerald Bay resort, Mexico

In the history of indulgence, only a few improvements have been made since the ancient Roman baths. They already had jacuzzis & running hot maid servicing, for example.

Mom spoke of something new called an infinity pool. I had to see one.

infinity pool

Very cool.

This photo was taken at a new posh resort in Mazatlán.

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Next travelogue on this trip >> McCharles family photos, Mazatlán.

travelogue – Costa Bonita resort, Mexico

Our second week in Mazatlán we moved to a newer resort, further from the centre of town. Construction is booming here though we cannot understand why.

We were well pleased with Costa Bonita finding it friendly & tranquil.

Costa Bonita means “pretty coast“. For once a marketing name is appropriate as this resort fronts the best beach.

It took me over a week to accommodate to the slower rhythms of life in the tropics. My resting heart rate decreased to synchronize with the surf break.
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Where are the beach vendors? Most are several miles closer to the centre of town, at the much busier “golden zone” of resorts.

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See the messy balcony bottom centre? That’s our unit. Yvonne found it through her condo time-share association.

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A nice touch are the many welded animals decorating the Costa Bonita Resort.

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One night peeked at the (open) penthouse while taking sunset photos. (It had just sold for US$460,000.)

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Costa Bonita was quite quiet while we were there. Many units were not occupied.

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A pleasant stroll down the beach brings you to the surf point restaurant. This is a sprouting pineapple, by the way.

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You can rent water toys. Or annoy EVERYONE by renting a noisy quad.

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One group of local youth even set up a trampoline. Yes, they were both unskilled and dangerous.

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This is the Witch’s Beach.

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I kept hearing that Mazatlan is #1 in the world in Coke consumption per capita.

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Dead sea turtle washed up on the beach.

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A local gringo drove us down to the shrimp market. We loaded up for a feed!

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Fishing boats at Ceritos.

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travelogue – Mazatlán fishing – catch and decease

Many come to Mazatlán, Mexico solely for sport fishing. Gamblers go deep for marlin, swordfish, sailfish, tuna & especially dorado (dolphinfish). I’ve been shut out twice on those trips.

This time we opted for a bottom-fishing trip expecting to haul in dozens of snapper & grouper.

That we did. But the real highlight was a gymnastics display by whales!

whale

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Next travelogue on this trip >> Costa Bonita resort.

warning – The Inn at Mazatlan, Mexico

The Inn at Mazatlán is one of the best resorts in town, no doubt. It’s been my home in Mexico since Katrina first took me there over 20-years-ago.

It is not a perfect resort. None are, of course.

One warning to would-be condo investors in Mexico.

Consider the “carrying costs“.

I paid C$5000 for 1 week a year for 23 years. My “condo Fee” started at US$75 / week / year. Very reasonable.

But when my annual bill reached US$400 for that week, I walked away from my unit, unable to sell a time-share with such a high condo fee.

My brother bought a unit at the Inn at Mazatlán about the time I walked away. His condo fee started low and is now well over US$400. He is starting to have doubts.

Fact is, you can rent a week at a 4-star resort in Mazatlán for US$400.

Be sceptical of pretty people and pretty condo pitches in Mazatlán. Things can only get worse for those who own at the Inn. Americans may be required to get a passport to travel to Mexico by 2007. Many will stop travelling to Mexico. Money will get tighter here.

This will further stifle business in Maz, still disaffected from the decrease in travel from the USA after 9/11.

If you have plenty of money, I recommend the Inn at Mazatlán — but it is cheaper to rent as you go.

The Inn at Mazatlán official website

Inn at Mazatlán

travelogue – Mazatlán jungle tour

The most popular tour out of Maz is the boat trip through estuary mangrove swamps.

Our family took the tour, most of us for the second or third time. Excellent — especially the birds.

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The boat gets you very close to bird life.

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Birds are increasingly tolerant of tourists here.

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This is the flat-bottomed boat used on the tours. They sometimes get stuck at low tide.

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Mangey beach dog.

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New on the tour is a research project growing … sea horse.

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We got about 90 minutes on a pristine, protected beach.

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A lovely spot marred only by the recent introduction of quad vehicles. (Gladly no one rented one the day we were there.)

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It is astonishing the number of over-weight people lounging the beaches of Mexico.

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Mom
Mom
Randy
Randy
Rob
Rob
Dad
Dad

Great Blue Heron.

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Feeding the pelican.

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These giant birds have learned to come to the boat for a daily handout.

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Long-time tour guide Polo even puts a fish on his head. (I remember Polo from my first jungle tour perhaps 20 years ago. Then he had a pet racoon on the boat.)

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Yvonne feeding the birds. 🙂

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The pelicans truely are impressive.

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Getting the fish is the easy part. Keeping it from your dive-bombing competitors is the bigger challenge.

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This hat went overboard. The skipper retrieved it.

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travelogue – Mazatlan

Back in my old hangout in Mexico. I owned a condo here for about 15 years — purchased from a pretty Canadian saleswoman while I was drinking.

A bit fuzzy from the 14-hour overnight bus ride, a flyby of local giant pelicans welcomed me home.

… Nostalgia is a wonderful thing.

Inn at Mazatlan

Next travelogue on this trip >> Mazatlán jungle tour.