Cycling / Hiking Arctic Norway ➙ Lofoten

Trip report by Rick McCharles

Part 2 of 3

  1. Cycling / Hiking Lyngen Alps to Lofoten
  2. Cycling / Hiking Arctic Norway ➙ Lofoten
  3. Cycling Bodø to Trondheim + Kristiansund & Atlantic Road

Most of the photos you’ve seen of Norway were shot in the Lofoten archipelago.

Well above the Arctic Circle.

Distinctive scenery with dramatic peaks, fjords, sheltered bays & beaches.

Click PLAY or watch my HIGHLIGHTS VIDEO on YouTube. Shot over 2 weeks 2022 and 2023.

However, the BEST hiking video I’ve watched is from Harmen Hoek June 2023. Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Day 6 — July 6th, 2023

I took yet another free ferry to get to Lofoten.

Welcome back. This was my 3rd visit to Lofoten.

As Lofoten is crowded with motor vehicles, I’d say cycling is the best way to travel here.

You can travel by bus — but many run only a few times a day.

Accommodation is booked long in advance. But with a bike you can set up your tent pretty much wherever you wish. And there are many good options.

Day 7 — July 7th, 2023

Weather was mixed. In any given hour you might get sun, rain, or mist.

Nobody complains about the scenery in Lofoten, however. It’s all marvellous.

In 2022, by far my favourite campsite was Uttakleiv Beach.

That’s a private campground that cost$ money. In 2023 I went instead to the free beach nearby called Haukland. Also good, but not as good.

As parking lots are rarely level, everyone carries these plastic wheel lifters for their vehicles.

Day 8 — July 8th, 2023

Low fog and misty rain. I decided to cycle to one of two hostels in Lofoten ➙ Lydersen Rorbuer.

Stayed 2 nights taking a break and getting some photos and video edited. Did laundry.

I had a great time in 2022. And enjoyed it just as much in 2023.

Here’s the view from the hostel. Low cloud, as you can see.

Nearby is a good store and cafe.

My most mellow day, so far.

Day 9 — July 9th, 2023

Weather was expected to improve today. Some headed up to the main hike from here ➙ Ryten.

As I’d done it in 2022, I headed instead to a lower hike called Ytresandheia – Røren. Excellent, though I’d not even heard about it. It’s the alternative to Ryten when the peak is socked in.

Ytresandheia – Røren

Later — having finished my video editing — I took an evening hike. This photo was shot at 9pm, for example. There is no night above the Arctic Circle in early July.

Day 10 — July 10th, 2023

Next morning I cleaned and organized my gear.

There’s an impressive looking peak called FLAKSTADTIND you see out the window of the hostel. Staff told me it’s actually quite easy and popular with locals.

With the good weather, it was fantastic.

Continuing on south, I stopped to fly the drone through one of the many fish drying racks. Typically cod is hung for about 16 weeks. Much is sold to Italy and Africa.

When I rolled through Reine, weather was perfect. I knew hundreds of people would have climbed 448m to the top of Reinebringen. It would be VERY crowded.

Having done the most popular photo op in Norway twice before, I gave it a miss this time.

But here’s the VIDEO as I can’t resist posting it again. 😀

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Instead I cycled leisurely to the end of the line ➙ the quaint village of Å.

I’d hoped to hike and tent — but it’s not legal nor possible anywhere near Å. Lovely evening, however.

I had to backtrack to find a campsite. Even with this vista, I felt it was the least excellent so far in Norway.

Day 11 — July 11th, 2023

It seemed crazy to leave Lofoten with the weather so good — but I rolled on to the free ferry to Bodø.

Farewell Lofoten. One of the best hiking destinations in the world. Know that roads are actually quite crowded and narrow for bicycles. But most of the traffic is tourists, most sympathetic for cyclists.

Cycling Norway, NOT Faroes & Iceland

Below was my original plan posted December 2021.

I leave it for posterity.

What actually happened in 2023 was a logistics problem. The ferry to the Faroe Islands was only running once a week. To stop over would leave me there for 8 days — too long, I thought.

When I got an offer to house sit in Berlin, I jumped on it. I’ll be cycling / hiking southern Germany and surrounds instead.

Faroe Islands will have to WAIT for sometime in future. I’ll likely fly.


December 15, 2021:

With my new touring bike, the trip I’d most like to take would include Norway, Faroe Islands, and Iceland.

Gorgeous. Expen$ive — unless you are camping most nights.

Ultimate plan is flying to Oslo July 2022. Connecting flight to Tromsø. Have my bike assembled there by a recommended bike shop.

Cycle about 3000km south to Langesund. In about 30 days. That includes close to 300km by ferry.

This route is the recommendation of a consultant I’ve hired. His name … Matthew Norway.

Matthew put together a map for me in the Komoot app. (If anything goes wrong, I’d cycle to the nearest train station. 😀 )

I’d cycle to the Island of Senja first. Then the Lofoten Islands. Those two destinations are my highest priorities.

That route includes about 30 ferries. Most of those free.

UPDATE: The closer I get to starting, the more unrealistic 3000km is looking to me. I’m anticipating cutting out at some point — and taking the train south so I have time for the Faroe Islands. Another high priority.

Cycling there looks something like this.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

If I cut away from the coast, I MIGHT do some famous rides in the south as I work my way to Oslo. Most interesting is Rena to Lillehammer, the Berkebeinerrittet route. It hosts the largest mountain bike race in the world. Or something even more challenging.

Click PLAY or watch some Norway cycling and hiking on YouTube.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Weather is the BIG problem. I’m trying to put together a system that could handle the worst possible conditions. Matthew recommends the Yr.no app for making decisions based on weather.

Finally, I’d take the ferry from Langesund near Oslo to Hirtshals on Denmark’s Jutland peninsula. (5hrs)


I’d book the ferry from Hirtshals in Denmark to the Faroe Islands (30 hours). It runs twice a week during the summer.

Once I get to those remote islands, I’ll mainly focus on the most famous hikes. Many of them cost $30 or more as they are all on private land.


It’s another 18 hours by ferry to Iceland. I’m still deciding what to do there.

I’d arrive in Seyðisfjørður on the east coast. Depending on my time and enthusiasm, I MIGHT do one of the routes crossing inland.

Easier would be to find transportation to the most interesting cycling areas:

Click PLAY or watch some Iceland cycling and hiking on YouTube. #inspiration

Iceland is lowest priority of the three destinations as I’ve traveled and hiked there in the past.

An alternative to cycling through Iceland’s interior would be to do CHRIS BURKARD’s 900km route around the remote Westfjords – the Westfjord Way. Lael was on that trip — so I downloaded her map to Komoot.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Cycling Arctic Norway ➙ Lyngen Alps to Lofoten

Trip report by Rick McCharles

Part 1 of 3

  1. Cycling / Hiking Lyngen Alps to Lofoten
  2. Cycling / Hiking Arctic Norway ➙ Lofoten
  3. Cycling Bodø to Trondheim + Kristiansund & Atlantic Road

Click PLAY or get a glimpse on YouTube.

I flew into Tromsø, Norway summer 2022. BUT Scandinavian Airlines left my bicycle sitting in Heathrow airport for 5 weeks. … And finally sent it back to Canada. ☹️

Making the best of it, I rented bikes in Tromsø and finally travelled by bus down to Lofoten.

I decided to try again summer 2023. And this time my bike and gear did make it to Tromsø.

Tromsø

Hoo hoo.

Cycling the north of Norway was my #1 goal following the pandemic.

Tromsø to Lofoten / Bodo is the most interesting section, for me.

I spent 2 days in Tromsø getting the bike set-up and packing groceries. Then set off south on a Komoot app route I bought from guru Matthew of CycleNorway.com.

So far it’s mostly been the very popular Eurovelo 1 cycling route.

Day 1 — July 1st, 2023

To start I took a 64km detour 😀 to hike Brosmetinden. Beautiful weather. But WINDY.

That night I set up the tent at Grotfjord beach. Free and fantastic. By law you can camp almost anywhere in Norway at no cost.

Day 2 — July 2nd, 2023

I headed for quaint Hillesøya, a short detour off my route.

There’s a steep day hike up Nordkollen that’s interesting. Rope and chain assist.

I stash my bike in the trees for these hikes.

I put the metal to the pedal to make it to a favourite campsite from the previous summer.

Fjordgård, Senja

Norway is expensive. I rarely eat at restaurants.

Camp cooking is great — but I do prefer having a picnic table.

Day 3 — July 3rd, 2023

Weather forecast was excellent for one of my main highlights of Norway. The Hesten / Segla hike.

I’d climbed Segla in 2022, posting my most experimental and worst VIDEO yet. 😀

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

TRIP REPORT

From Segla I cycled south until reaching a tunnel temporarily closed to cyclists. After an hour or so of waiting around, two of us crossed by putting our bikes and gear inside vehicles.

This young German speed demon (140km/day) and I set up our tents at yet another amazing free government campsite called Ersfjordstranda outdoor recreation area.

Day 4 — July 4th, 2023

The great weather continued.

But for reasons unknown, this July Senja island was tortured by big, slow horseflies. I put on my rain suit for protection.

I was waiting for the ferry — FREE for cyclists in Norway — to the next island ➙ Andøya.

Weirdly, I never saw another horse fly. Only Senja island was plagued.

Early evening I came upon this surprisingly modern building.

An ultra modern toilet block. At a push of a button, those windows could be made opaque. Cool.

I decided to set up my tent. It was me and the sheep.

Day 5 — July 5th, 2023

The following day was long and uneventful. No hikes.

The bike and gear working perfectly, my main complaints were muscular soreness in the upper back and neck. I tried to take more short breaks. I’m in no rush.

Andøya is less popular with tourists. The bog better for  peat and cloudberries.

I needed up camping on the beach.

Day 6 — July 6th, 2023

Next morning I caught the ferry to Lofoten.

It was a great start to my trip.

Heston

On one list, Norway is ranked the BEST nation in Europe for multi-day cycling.

I’d agree. But that list is suspect.

So far as I’ve heard from cyclists, France is best set-up. Germany and Austria quickly improving.

Personally, I’d go to Germany next. In addition, Germany is offering a rail pass for tourists ➙ €49 / month for anywhere in the country. You could hop on some trains with a bike.

Travelogue PART 2 is next:

Cycling / Hiking Arctic Norway ➙ Lofoten

Visiting Tromsø, Norway

I spent a couple of weeks cycling and hiking out of Tromsø in 2022.

Returned to start a long cycling tour summer 2023.

It’s an unforgettable tourist destination. All the cruise ships stop.

It’s a year round attraction. Winter is even more popular as folks come to find the northern lights.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. Two of my favourite travel vloggers.

Want more?

Tromsø, Norway: Full Travel Guide

I NEED a First-Person-View (FPV) Drone

My retirement hobby is making hiking videos.

Best of all is drone video.

What’s next?

Certainly I’ll be getting an FPV drone … sometime.

If I HAD to buy one today, it would be the DJI Avata. But the price of U.S. $1428 is too steep.

That will come down quickly.

My current drones cost me about U.S. $300 each.

Here’s the kind of fun shots you can plan and shoot with an FPV. It’s radically different than a normal drone.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Spring Hiking/Skiing Banff

Having grown up in Calgary, I’d done a LOT of hiking in the Canadian Rockies in the SUMMER.

But for the past 3 years I’ve stayed in Banff for Spring skiing and Spring hiking.

Hiking in March / April was NEW to me.

Each time I stayed in the Samesun Hostel, the best overall of 3 good hostels in Banff.

I learned the hard way trying Sundance Canyon that micro spikes are essential for hiking ice. I backtracked to town and bought Yaktrax. An excellent product.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

BEST Spring Hike in Banff?

For sure that’s Sulphur Mountain. You MIGHT be able to ride the gondola down free. Soak in the Hot Springs at the bottom.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

MORE VIDEOS:

For a short hike right from town I typically simply walk the rivers and creeks. Lovely.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

VIDEO – Why I Travel The World Alone

This over-the-top video by Bashir Abu Shakra won the 2022 Skypixel Drone Grand Prize. It features some stunning footage from the Alps, Brazil, and Mongolia.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Lisa’s Birthday Adventure Week – Moab, Utah

I had a GREAT time with Dave and Lisa Adlard in one of my top 10 hiking towns of the world – Moab.

End of March should be ideal weather for outdoor activity. BUT 2023 was colder than usual.

Lisa rented a huge house. We had 19 people.

AND another 10+ over at other rental properties.

Click PLAY or watch a HIGHLIGHTS VIDEO on YouTube.

The birthday girl and friends enjoyed a SPA session.

That same day we were at a Climbing Club in Salt Lake City.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

The Rapel at William’s Bottom was a highlight.

I was video guy for this one. Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

I skipped the Side-by-side Quad adventuring. Jason only rolled his quad once. And only a quarter turn into sand. No injuries.

We had 2 dirt motor bikes, as well.

Corona Arch was the hike where most of our group got together for sunset.

Arches National Park was cold and windy when we were there. A fantastic place.

Dead Horse Point is wonderful. We had one group hike. And one group cycle.

Click PLAY or see Deadhorse on YouTube.

We ate most of our meals at the house. One restaurant blowout was hosted at Zac’s.

The infamous mountain bike circuit is called Slickrock Trail. I survived it in 2007 and did NOT want to risk a second time. BUT some of our group cycled it safely. Jeni and I hiked Slickrock.

A wonderful adventure vacation. It reminded me of a similar trip with Adlards to the Oregon Coast in 2021.

For Want of a Nail

I’m typically the guy who says: “Why carry a nail? It’s too heavy! … We probably won’t need it on this trip.” 😀

#FamousLastWords

The proverb is found in a number of forms, beginning as early as the 13th century.

For want of a nail the shoe was lost.
For want of a shoe the horse was lost.
For want of a horse the rider was lost.
For want of a rider the message was lost.
For want of a message the battle was lost.
For want of a battle the kingdom was lost.
And all for the want of a horseshoe nail.

Related sayings are “A stitch, in time, saves nine” and “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. 

Farewell Bermuda

I escaped the Great White North winter for about 5 weeks. I’m a volunteer with the Gymnastics Federation and did some coaching at the two competitive clubs.

Population of Bermuda is only about 65,000.

I’ve been coming to Bermuda since 2016. But still treat every goodbye as my last. 😎