travel – Lonely Planet

Guatemala guidebook Lonely Planet guidebooks revolutionized travel & reinvented the guidebook genre in the same way that Cirque du Soleil reinvented the circus.

Starting on a kitchen table in 1972, the Australian company grew quickly to dominate the industry overcoming many long-established competitors.

What did Lonely Planet do right?

  • The best maps
  • No advertising
  • No endorsements
  • Focus on good value at all price ranges
  • Support of ecologically sensitive vendors
  • Support of indigenous vendors over outsiders
  • Highlights maps
  • Top 10 lists
  • Recommended itineraries
  • Lonely Planet holds people to account. If vendors cheat or misrepresent to travellers, they do so at their peril. In some cases businesses close after LP gives a bad review or even drops a listing.

    And brutally accurate write-ups. While they have gotten softer over the years, my current Central America on a Shoestring still includes:

    TOP FIVE BASTARDS

    … Those who have wrecked havoc on Central America. A Hall of Shame:

    1) Pedro Arias de Avila – bishop-murdering Spanish founder of Panama City

    2) Pedro de Alvarado – Spaniard whose burning of captives in the 1520s disturbed even Cortes

    3) Alonso de Caceres – Spaniard who called fake truce in 1537 to murder Honduran indigenous leader Lempira

    4) William Walker – bully American in 1850s who tried to take over Central America

    5) Ronald Reagan – US president of 1980s who broke records for outside intervention

    Other travel guidebooks were inferior. I recall the horrible Lets Go Europe we carried in 1976. And the stupendously useless Rough Guide China (1st edition) I foolishly did not throw in the dumpster in 1998.

    Now in a very few regions there are good competitors; the best example being the South American Handbook (now Footprint guides).

    Thence I was shocked (as you might imagine) to stumble on to Moon Handbooks Baja — a better guidebook than Lonely Planet! Why so? For one thing it is authored by Joe Cummings, the legendary lead writer for Lonely Planet in the early years. When Mick Jagger wanted a guide for his entourage in Thailand, he phoned Joe.

    I’ve started to browse other travel guidebooks recently and been very pleasantly surprised. They have improved. Most by copying LPs format and style.

    It reminds me how Microsoft, Yahoo and AOL search engines exactly copied Google and, as a result, are starting to improve. Have you seen the prettiest Google imitator? Ask.com

    I may finally (faintly) consider alternative guidebooks in future.

    travelogue – snorkelling Belize

    Being a fast walker in Belize is a no go. Rastafarians corrected me, “Go Slow, Mon.”

    After weeks complaining about Mexico, I had a jerk eating grin when crossing the border into the tiny country of Belize. This is an English speaking enclave in Latin America — though I have to admit I understand more Spanish than the Creole English spoken here!

    EVERYTHING is different in Belize. I loved it.

    Tourists avoid Belize City known for drug violence, street people and crack whores. They head straight for the Cayes. Belize feels more like a Caribbean island than mainland, anyway.

    Backpackers like best Caye Caulker, only 6.5km long, 600m wide.

    I have always been poor at not drowning. I fear all bodies of water larger and colder than a jacuzzi. That’s why I am proud of the many days snorkelling I have put together on this trip. I can relax. The highlight for me was the Marine Reserve reefs off Belize including Shark and Ray Alley.

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    See photos of Caye Caulker and BIG marine life by jumping to my photos on flickr.

    Nurse Shark
    Nurse Shark

    Next time? I would love to take a sailing holiday through the cayes, living on the boat or camping en route.

    travelogue – Tulum, Mexico

    Looking for a beach paradise?

    Tulum is a Mayan walled city guarding the gorgeous Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo, Mexico. However, once tourists see this Riviera Mexicana beach, they tend to forget to visit the archaeological attraction.

    Screw Cancun. Bypass Playa del Carmen. Tulum is the best beach bang for your buck on the Mexican Caribbean.

    Tulum on the Riviera Mexicana, 130km south of Cancun.

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    I tented here 4 nights.

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    We also rented at least one thatch roofed cabana in which I stored my gear.

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    Tenting cost about US$6 / night. Cabanas run US$12 and up. A bit higher at Zazil Kin resort, your best bet.

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    The beach is insect free. No hassles of any kind.

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    Not much to do but walk the beach and snorkel out to the world’s second longest reef 400m from shore.

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    There were many signs of last year’s hurricane damage.

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    This toilet block did not survive a big blow.

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    Sarah, my yoga teacher. (She is kind & helpful to all though this photo would not have you think so. She doesn’t like it!) Those are the Mayan temple ruins in the background.

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    I enjoyed 2 days of yoga on the beach. Perhaps 90 minute slow, easy sessions.

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    My favourite of the inexpensive beach resorts was Diamonte K. Unique, filled with interesting art pieces.

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    Many resorts here long ago added “Eco” to their names. Next step is to add “solar” to the sign board.

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    Big old iguanas are a highlight of the Tulum scenery.

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    Monika and Monty, a lovely couple from the UK just starting 7 months of travel.

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    Monty, Ron and Tom.

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    This dog got plenty of exercise every day chasing his master’s kite.

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    Beach bar with hammocks.

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    Many of the cabanas are wedged into the dunes for protection against the wind. One night we got coated with a fine layer of sand.

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    Should I book you a hut?

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    Fishermen land here to sell lobster & fish to tourists.

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    Kite surfer.

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    Most evenings we caught the free hostel shuttle into town.

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    Tulum town is noted as “butt ugly” in the guidebooks. But I still liked it.

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    The hostel offered “burn your own barbecue” for US$3.50.

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    We much enjoyed “The Weary Traveller”. One of the best hostels in Mexico, I reckon.

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    One night I bought a basket of “carne” for a meat pig-out. Vegetarians were mortified.

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    Another night we cooked fish on the beach. This is a home made barbecue tong.

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    The highlight of Tulum for me was snorkelling a cenote.

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    Finally we hit the modest Tulum ruins. Many backpackers never get around to paying the US$5 entry fee.

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    The Spanish in 1518 were amazed by this city, painted vivid red, blue and yellow. It was one of the last fortresses to be abandoned.

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    Many spend more time on the Tulum beach than touring the ruins. A spectacular setting.

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    See the iguana checking out the bikinis?

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    I would return to Tulum any time. It is a fantastic place!

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    Hurricane Wilma graphic

    Interactive: Hurricane tracker – Weather News – MSNBC.com

    Click on the link above to see a visual of Hurricane Wilma.

    It was an act of God truly — the big luxury hotels in Cancun & Cozumel got slammed hardest.

    Some were still rebuilding from Hurricane Gilbert in 1988.

    Hurricane Wilma

    Hurricane Wilma – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    Let me poo poo the Commie conjecture of global warming.

    George Bush and I agree that it is simply coincidence that last year was the warmest worldwide on record. It was a fluke that it was the worst hurricane season on record.

    The folks who lived through it in the Yucatan are harder to convince.

    tattered Mexican flag

    This is the second largest flag in the world, still tattered from Wilma. As is the Mexican Caribbean coastline.

    Victor was on Isla Mujares when Wilma hit October 2005. He was guiding 40 Scandinavian girls on a bike tour when the evacuation call came.

    It was end-of-the-world stuff, he told. Palm trees designed to sheer in high winds were ripped out of the ground by the roots — spinning off like a child´s toy.

    Officially Wilma bypassed Isla Mujeres!

    The hurricane’s eye first passed over the island of Cozumel, and then made official landfall near Playa del Carmen with winds near 140 mph.

    Wilma was the most intense Atlantic hurricane ever measured (based on central pressure) and one of the worst 10 of all time based on any criteria.

    Lets hope the gorgeous white sand beaches can all be restored.

    travelogue – Island of Women

    From Cancun a half hour ferry delivers you to Isla Mujeres — the Island of Women.

    Friends had raved about a beach paradise there. But that was decades ago. I was sure it was long since ruined.

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    I was surprised how laid back was my reception. Not a single taxi driver or hotel tout approached me on arrival.

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    I went directly to Pac Na, billed as the Club Med of Mexican hostels. This is their ocean front beach volleyball bar.

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    Tents are pitched in quiet sandy courtyards.

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    I wedged my Hubba under a coconut palm.

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    The best of many good coffee shops was just down the street.

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    Hurricane Wilma did a fair bit of damage to the island. Here the sea wall is being reinforced in advance of the next big blow.

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    The main draw of Isla Mujeres for me was snorkeling.

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    This was the best snorkelling area from town. About 2 blocks walk from the hostel.

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    Under the docks fish congregate, protected from diving sea birds.

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    The water was superb even in February. Warm and crystal clear. No wetsuit needed, I thought, though many did wear one.

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    Graveyard.

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    I had not seen this particular angel pose before.

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    Many are disappointed by the modest main plaza. And the remarkably simple cathedral.

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    I quite liked the plaza. Colourful, clean, simple. I ate tacos there in the evening from street venders.

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    Look at the pipes on that playground trestle.

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    The Hemmingway bar is a classic. He was not there when I popped in.

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    I booked a bike tour through the hostel. Excellent and inexpensive.

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    The highlight was the sea turtle farm.

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    Eggs are protected, harvested, hatched and the turtles are kept here until almost 3-years-old. When they are released they then stand an excellent chance of survival.

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    We marvelled at the lovely starburst shell patterns.

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    The bike tour finished with a sunset visit to the far south point of the island. A sculpture garden is installed there.

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    A nice setting, I thought.

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    This is the furthest east point of land in Mexico. It sees the sun first.

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    We walked down to reach the very edge of Mexico.

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    McCharles family in Mazatlan

    The day before departing for Mexico, Rob announced he was leaving his job of 20-years. For one thing, he & partner Yvonne want more flexibility in vacationing.

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    Randy’s condo vista at the Inn at Mazatlan. He hosted us for the week there.

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    I love the west facing view.

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    This 2-week holiday was a rare chance for the whole McCharles nuclear family to get together. Randy (left) does not have much free holiday time.

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    Dad is no sunbather. But he loves the fishing in Mexico.

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    Boarding for the excellent “jungle tour”.

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    Our most memorable restaurant was the Canadian managed “Casa Country”.

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    Mom checking the unique ponds at Costa Bonita.

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    Dad’s coffee station. I worked on that Kaluha bottle for 2 weeks.

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    Twice we went out for ribs. Very good in Maz.

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    A rare sighting of Eric McCharles in a swimming pool. (The chemicals tend to irritate his skin.)

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    Mom loves to walk. The long beaches here are perfect for her.

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    I’ve always loved walking south down the coast towards the city centre.

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    Yvonne too walks a lot. She delivers the mail.

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    Loading up in a “pulmonia” taxi, a VW Beetle rigged like a golf cart.

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    fishing out of Mazatlan

    6:20 AM departure Mazatlan marina.

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    The boats were busy as trips from the previous 2 days had been cancelled due to high wind.

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    Sunrise from the boat.

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    Dad had taken many Mexican fishing trips in the past & was looking forward to another one.

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    The anchor is welded rebar, quite flexible just-in-case it gets snagged.

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    The highlight of the trip for me was an unexpected acrobatic show by California Grey whales!

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    El Capitano. 18 years piloting these waters.

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    We were bottom fishing. Light rods, 2 hooks baited with shrimp.

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    Yvonne caught the first fish and the biggest Grouper.

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    The water was choppy on the 90 minute ride out. I felt slightly seasick all day.

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    We had 6 Canadians with rods in the water. Cost about US$50 / person. (Boat is US$250 plus tip for a 7hr day.)

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    We were out with the Escuelo fleet, recommended by gingo locals.

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    It was difficult to “feel” a hit with 200ft of line out.

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    Bottom fishing you catch many small fish but have no chance at big Dorado or Marlin.

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    	FisheRob.
    FisheRob.

    With our haul in the cooler & much smoother seas, the trip in was relaxing.

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    Giant iguana guarding the harbour.

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    Disclaimer: Rick did NOT catch this fish.

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    Skipper cleaning our red snapper.

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    Larry from Alberta let us keep his fish.

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    Dinner for 4. Yvonne’s grouper & 3 snapper. We gave the rest away.

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    travelogue – Mexico is a crappy country

    Rick\'s mugWhen I say crappy, I mean crappy for ME — a gringo traveller.

    This phrase — Mexico is a crappy country — started to ring true after I was overcharged US$20 by an otherwise lovely hotel manager. Then duped by an otherwise friendly taxi driver into taking 2 cabs instead of the one large vehicle I had requested.

    Now I write this after spending 4-days on a pristine island paradise here. This land has great potential. But it is woefully underdeveloped for the most part. It is astonishing how far it lags behind big neighbour, the USA.

    Seems to me Mexico has most of the worst attributes of the first and the third worlds. It’s expensive — but there is no recourse available to the customer when wronged. (Except to blog the culprits.)

    A (bad) muffin cost more here than in Canada — and the bakery salesgirl systematically shortchanges you. Yeesh.

    Wages are perhaps 15% of those in Canada. Yet prices are the same for most things. Where is the money going? Not to pay Mexican taxes, that’s certain.

    A woman I met on a kayak tour was suffering buyer’s remorse. She recently retired. Her husband died last year. The sharks met her arriving at the Cabo airport. She bought an expensive condo from that first salesman.

    In Mexico you are vulnerable if you are recently arrived, elderly, if you don’t speak Spanish.

    It ticks me off.

    I’m one of the few who feels that the best thing happening in Mexico is the inevitable domination of McDonalds, Wal-Mart, Applebee’s and the ilk. Efficient companies with fixed prices & quality control.

    Mexico is a crappy country for the long-term traveller.

    I wish I was in Laos.

    Next travelogue on this trip >> Island of Women

    travelogue – La Paz, Baja

    Most jet straight to raucous Cabo when they come to Baja. I am much happier in mellow La Paz.

    From Mazatlan I caught the ferry.

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    The (expensive) trip was supposed to take 14-16 hours but it was closer to 22 hours for me. I watched 5 family movies. Have you seen Freaky Friday?

    Last millennium I stayed at Pension California. They haven’t updated it since. El Cheapo = US$15 / night.
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    Every morning I waltzed down to Exquisito for excellent cofee & free wireless internet. I was “working” — doing a website for a client.

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    La Paz (the Peace) is one of the best liked cities (165,000) in Mexico. The main entertainment is strolling the waterfront Malecón.

    Most of my photos are — as usual — statues.

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    I like this statue best. About 1/3 the entire world population of sea mammals live in the waters of Baja.

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    I bussed out to Tecolote beach.

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    From here you COULD paddle 4.5 miles to the island in the distance. I thought that was a bit dangerous. So instead of renting a kayak, I signed on with a guided kayak tour.

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    Sunset with rum and raison ice cream in a giant hand-made waffle cone.

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