All together over 22 days, I covered the west coast from the Lyngen Alps to the Storseisundet Bridge over 2 summers. Of course not all of that was on bicycle. Some was train and much was on ferries. Perhaps 20 ferries, most of them free for cyclists.
Day 11 — July 11th, 2023
I caught the long, free ferry from Lofoten to Bodø, a town I really like. The jumping off point for Lofoten.
I’d spent quite a few days there over my 3 visits to Lofoten.
Like Canada, Norway is a land of lakes. Hydroelectricity.
Waterfalls are everywhere.
There are even more electric cars. About 80% purchased recently are at least hybrid. But that might drop as subsidies are withdrawn.
Expensive, I avoid restaurants in Norway, instead cooking for myself on a camp stove.
A rare exception was getting this burger with onion rings while waiting for a ferry. I wanted to charge my electronics, not always easy while cycling.
Ferries are excellent in Norway. In a land of fjords and bad weather, they have to be.
You can sleep. Eat. Charge batteries. All while enjoying amazing vistas.
Most often it’s overcast in Norway. But that’s quite comfortable weather for cycling. Not too hot. Not too cold.
Day 13 — July 13th, 2023
This was the only day I could go shirtless.
Here we are crossing the Arctic Circle.
Still north of most of Iceland, Alaska, and Yukon.
We stopped at the Grønsvik coastal fortress, Lurøy. Much like others I had seen around the world — but this one was built by Hitler’s troops.
The Nazis occupied Norway from 9 April 1940 until the end of the war in Europe, 8 May 1945.
You can understand why Norweigans don’t want Putin occupying Ukraine.
Unfortunately, the museum was closed.
I considered camping here — but ultimately moved on.
Day 14 — July 14th, 2023
The day began in lovely weather.
In a few sections, many sheep opted to rest on the pavement. As trucks zoomed by, they were mostly not bothered.
It later turned out to be my rainiest day in 2023.
Actually, over many summer weeks in Norway, I’ve had very little hard rain. Wind is a bigger problem for the cyclist.
The north is relatively dry compared with Bergen, wettest city in Europe. So I’m expecting more rain as I ride south.
I booked a room in Sandnessjoen for about US$85. My favourite site is booking.com (Priceline) as it’s working far better than any other I’ve tried. Even for hostels.
In 22 days I paid for accommodation only 3 nights. And of 19 nights in the tent, almost all were excellent. Free and easy tenting in Norway is what lifts it to the top of my best bikepacking destinations anywhere list. 😀
I got the room mainly to finalize a change in plans. Rather than continue cycling through Norway and on to the Faroe Islands and Iceland, I’d — instead — fly to Munich and house sit for a friend who’d be on holiday in Canada visiting family.
In fact, Germany is my #2 bikepacking destination after Norway.
I had to book a train to Oslo with bike. Accommodation Oslo. Flight Oslo to Munich. Etc.
My favourite street art of this trip I found in Sandnessjoen
When I saw hard rain coming, I decided to set up up the tent and have a siesta. Wait it out.
Unfortunately, this wood pile yard was infested with no-see-ems. I couldn’t leave the tent.
Overall, there are very few biting insects on the west coast of Norway.
Happily, a cyclist going the other direction tipped me off to an excellent shelter campsite a short distance from the route. Perfect. And no bugs.
Day 17 — July 17th, 2023
Packing up the tent and bike in the morning typically takes about an hour. Including several cups of coffee. 😀 ☕️
Bike and gear excellent. My load a bit heavier than average for Norway.
Uneventful.
A long cycling day.
Not many photos.
I was beginning to lose motivation.
Day 18 — July 18th, 2023
My least happy day.
Few photos. Again.
The roads are narrow. And local traffic was getting busy as I approached Steinkjer. Trucks, trucks, and more trucks. Many northern roads are not busy — but when they are, you realize you have no shoulder.
Steinkjer was the first rail station since Bodø. I decided to catch the train to Trondheim.
Waiting was a friendly German cyclist who was on a 5 month bikepacking trip, finishing close to the Russian border where he’d start a hotel job in September.
He was backtracking to Trondheim due to a mechanical problem with the bike. Bicycles are still notoriously unreliable. They break down a lot.
Happily, I’ve had no problems with my bike in Europe.
The name Hell stems from the Old Norse word hellir, which means “overhang” or “cliff cave”. It has a more common homonym in modern Norwegian that means “luck”.
We arrived Trondheim in the early evening.
Camped in a city park across from the golf course. Totally legal and normal in Norway. 🙏
Day 19 — July 19th, 2023
I caught the private fast ferryTrondheim to Kristiansund, planning to finish my cycling at the famed Atlantic Ocean Road.
Kristiansund is quite charming. A small city with still a fishing village vibe.
This impressive church appealed, so I found my way around the harbour to check it out.
I finally rode up to the start of the 5.7km NO CYCLING undersea tunnel, hoping to find some way to cross to the Atlantic Ocean Road.
No luck. I saw no taxi. No bus. No sign. Nothing.
Defeated, I set up my tent in a nearby city park. After scaring away a deer. 😀
Day 20 — July 20th, 2023
First thing in the morning I cycled BACK to the tunnel and found 2 Norwegian cyclists waiting on a bicycle taxi. Happily, they invited me along.
That’s a private campground that cost$ money. In 2023 I went instead to the free beach nearby called Haukland. Also good, but not as good.
As parking lots are rarely level, everyone carries these plastic wheel lifters for their vehicles.
Day 8 — July 8th, 2023
Low fog and misty rain. I decided to cycle to one of two hostels in Lofoten ➙ Lydersen Rorbuer.
Stayed 2 nights taking a break and getting some photos and video edited. Did laundry.
I had a great time in 2022. And enjoyed it just as much in 2023.
Here’s the view from the hostel. Low cloud, as you can see.
Nearby is a good store and cafe.
My most mellow day, so far.
Day 9 — July 9th, 2023
Weather was expected to improve today. Some headed up to the main hike from here ➙ Ryten.
As I’d done it in 2022, I headed instead to a lower hike called Ytresandheia – Røren. Excellent, though I’d not even heard about it. It’s the alternative to Ryten when the peak is socked in.
Ytresandheia – Røren
Later — having finished my video editing — I took an evening hike. This photo was shot at 9pm, for example. There is no night above the Arctic Circle in early July.
Day 10 — July 10th, 2023
Next morning I cleaned and organized my gear.
There’s an impressive looking peak called FLAKSTADTIND you see out the window of the hostel. Staff told me it’s actually quite easy and popular with locals.
With the good weather, it was fantastic.
Continuing on south, I stopped to fly the drone through one of the many fish drying racks. Typically cod is hung for about 16 weeks. Much is sold to Italy and Africa.
When I rolled through Reine, weather was perfect. I knew hundreds of people would have climbed 448m to the top of Reinebringen. It would be VERY crowded.
Having done the most popular photo op in Norway twice before, I gave it a miss this time.
But here’s the VIDEO as I can’t resist posting it again. 😀
Instead I cycled leisurely to the end of the line ➙ the quaint village of Å.
I’d hoped to hike and tent — but it’s not legal nor possible anywhere near Å. Lovely evening, however.
I had to backtrack to find a campsite. Even with this vista, I felt it was the least excellent so far in Norway.
Day 11 — July 11th, 2023
It seemed crazy to leave Lofoten with the weather so good — but I rolled on to the free ferry to Bodø.
Farewell Lofoten. One of the best hiking destinations in the world. Know that roads are actually quite crowded and narrow for bicycles. But most of the traffic is tourists, most sympathetic for cyclists.
What actually happened in 2023 was a logistics problem. The ferry to the Faroe Islands was only running once a week. To stop over would leave me there for 8 days — too long, I thought.
When I got an offer to house sit in Berlin, I jumped on it. I’ll be cycling / hiking southern Germany and surrounds instead.
Faroe Islands will have to WAIT for sometime in future. I’ll likely fly.
December 15, 2021:
With my new touring bike, the trip I’d most like to take would include Norway, Faroe Islands, and Iceland.
Gorgeous. Expen$ive — unless you are camping most nights.
Ultimate plan is flying to Oslo July 2022. Connecting flight to Tromsø. Have my bike assembled there by a recommended bike shop.
Cycle about 3000km south to Langesund. In about 30 days. That includes close to 300km by ferry.
This route is the recommendation of a consultant I’ve hired. His name … Matthew Norway.
Matthew put together a map for me in the Komoot app. (If anything goes wrong, I’d cycle to the nearest train station. 😀 )
I’d cycle to the Island of Senja first. Then the Lofoten Islands. Those two destinations are my highest priorities.
That route includes about 30 ferries. Most of those free.
UPDATE: The closer I get to starting, the more unrealistic 3000km is looking to me. I’m anticipating cutting out at some point — and taking the train south so I have time for the Faroe Islands. Another high priority.
If I cut away from the coast, I MIGHT do some famous rides in the south as I work my way to Oslo. Most interesting is Rena to Lillehammer, the Berkebeinerrittet route. It hosts the largest mountain bike race in the world. Or something even more challenging.
Weather is the BIG problem. I’m trying to put together a system that could handle the worst possible conditions. Matthew recommends the Yr.no app for making decisions based on weather.
Finally, I’d take the ferry from Langesund near Oslo toHirtshals on Denmark’s Jutland peninsula. (5hrs)
I’d book the ferry from Hirtshals in Denmark to the Faroe Islands (30 hours). It runs twice a week during the summer.
Once I get to those remote islands, I’ll mainly focus on the most famous hikes. Many of them cost $30 or more as they are all on private land.
It’s another 18 hours by ferry to Iceland. I’m still deciding what to do there.
I’d arrive in Seyðisfjørður on the east coast. Depending on my time and enthusiasm, I MIGHT do one of the routes crossing inland.
Easier would be to find transportation to the most interesting cycling areas:
Iceland is lowest priority of the three destinations as I’ve traveled and hiked there in the past.
An alternative to cycling through Iceland’s interior would be to do CHRIS BURKARD’s 900km route around the remote Westfjords – the Westfjord Way. Lael was on that trip — so I downloaded her map to Komoot.
I flew into Tromsø, Norway summer 2022. BUT Scandinavian Airlines left my bicycle sitting in Heathrow airport for 5 weeks. … And finally sent it back to Canada. ☹️
Making the best of it, I rented bikes in Tromsø and finally travelled by bus down to Lofoten.
I decided to try again summer 2023. And this time my bike and gear did make it to Tromsø.
Tromsø
Hoo hoo.
Cycling the north of Norway was my #1 goal following the pandemic.
Tromsø to Lofoten/ Bodo is the most interesting section, for me.
I spent 2 days in Tromsø getting the bike set-up and packing groceries. Then set off south on a Komoot app route I bought from guru Matthew of CycleNorway.com.
So far it’s mostly been the very popular Eurovelo 1 cycling route.
Day 1 — July 1st, 2023
To start I took a 64km detour 😀 to hike Brosmetinden. Beautiful weather. But WINDY.
That night I set up the tent at Grotfjord beach. Free and fantastic. By law you can camp almost anywhere in Norway at no cost.
Day 2 — July 2nd, 2023
I headed for quaint Hillesøya, a short detour off my route.
There’s a steep day hikeup Nordkollen that’s interesting. Rope and chain assist.
I stash my bike in the trees for these hikes.
I put the metal to the pedal to make it to a favourite campsite from the previous summer.
Fjordgård, Senja
Norway is expensive. I rarely eat at restaurants.
Camp cooking is great — but I do prefer having a picnic table.
Day 3 — July 3rd, 2023
Weather forecast was excellent for one of my main highlights of Norway. The Hesten / Segla hike.
I’d climbed Segla in 2022, posting my most experimental and worst VIDEO yet. 😀
From Segla I cycled south until reaching a tunnel temporarily closed to cyclists. After an hour or so of waiting around, two of us crossed by putting our bikes and gear inside vehicles.
This young German speed demon (140km/day) and I set up our tents at yet another amazing free government campsite called Ersfjordstranda outdoor recreation area.
Day 4 — July 4th, 2023
The great weather continued.
But for reasons unknown, this July Senja island was tortured by big, slow horseflies. I put on my rain suit for protection.
I was waiting for the ferry — FREE for cyclists in Norway — to the next island ➙ Andøya.
Weirdly, I never saw another horse fly. Only Senja island was plagued.
Early evening I came upon this surprisingly modern building.
An ultra modern toilet block. At a push of a button, those windows could be made opaque. Cool.
I decided to set up my tent. It was me and the sheep.
Day 5 — July 5th, 2023
The following day was long and uneventful. No hikes.
The bike and gear working perfectly, my main complaints were muscular soreness in the upper back and neck. I tried to take more short breaks. I’m in no rush.
Andøya is less popular with tourists. The bog better for peat and cloudberries.
So far as I’ve heard from cyclists, France is best set-up. Germany and Austria quickly improving.
Personally, I’d go to Germany next. In addition, Germany is offering a rail pass for tourists ➙ €49 / month for anywhere in the country. You could hop on some trains with a bike.
Ultimately, I had to quit after day 3 because of illness.
Drinking from the same hoses and standing pipes as every other cyclist, I suffered some sort of stomach problem. Diarrhea. Threw up on my shoes, at one point.
Didn’t eat for about 36 hours.
BUT if not sick I might have still quit after Siena. Completing about 190km of the 472 total.
For one thing, the afternoon lightning storms were terrifying. Even the most experienced riders hunker down in lightning. Two were killed in Tuscany as I post — both hit by falling trees.
The rain turned some trails into impassable mud baths. … Though it did soften up some other trails.
My bike is excellent for normal bikepacking — but the Tuscany Trail was far more technical than I’d expected. A mountain bike with very little weight attached is what most experience riders were rocking.
I was envious of the electric mountain bikes.
My bike was the 2nd most inappropriate rig. Worse was a 2-person tandem. Husband and wife. I wished them luck.
I was cycling with ALL my gear for a months long trip.
On one of the many downhill, rocky trails a screw came loose on my front pannier rack. So my front saddle bags were rocking side-to-side.
In Siena I took as much off the bike as possible (see photo below) and went to find luggage storage.
IF you Google “siena luggage storage” you’ll find a wealth of options.
All lies. In Siena there are only tobacco shops who hold a few bags as side income. And they only open randomly. Not Sundays. … And this was Sunday.
WHY doesn’t Siena have 24-hour lockers like most Italian tourist cities.
My theory since age-17 is that Italy is hopeless for tourists.
Nothing works. Nothing is open when you need it.
A long history of government inefficiency and corruption makes it this way.
Note that Germany and Switzerland next door are two of the most efficient nations.
There are no real enforced rules in Italy. Yet every time a tourist turns around somebody is yelling at you for violating an unnecessary rule. Yeesh.
When tourists complain, it’s explained that Italians don’t care about entrepreneurship nor efficiency because they value lifestyle over money. I don’t buy it.
Chain-smoking and sipping tiny espressos is not a healthy lifestyle.
I’d definitely return to Tuscany for cycling. But not likely the most famous ride ➙ the Tuscany Trail.
For one thing, it’s mainly a ca$h grab by organizers. They spend very little and pocket over 100 € / person. Normally capped at 3000, in 2023 they went up to about 4700 bikes. Too many for these trails and small towns.
Better, for example. is the Ganza Gravel event. October is much better weather than June. Cyclists have 3-4 different routes to choose from. Folks get together for meals in the evenings. There might even be a food festival at the end.
For those who are not really cyclists, the supported electric bike tours looked very good to me. Not inexpensive.
Rick McCharles 