In 2018, Lonely Planet named Oslo one of the ten best cities in the world to visit, citing the Norwegian capital’s “innovative architecture and unmissable museums alongside cool bars, bistros and cafés“.
I learned about Gerd Vold Hurum, the secret 7th member of the Kon-Tiki expedition. She was key in organizing the expedition on shore. But never got famous. After all, Gerd was only a woman. 😕
Norwegians were the most successful of the Arctic and Antarctic explorers, I’d say, because they were smart enough to learn from native peoples. And understood the importance of dogs in crossing snow and ice.
Roald Amundsen’s team was the first to reach the South Pole on December 14th, 1911; five weeks later the polar party led by Robert Falcon Scott was second.
Amundson was a dedicated explorer. Life long. Arrogant and competitive.
Despite his hard man exterior, those who knew him well found a humorous, self-deprecating storyteller.
The word quisling has come to mean a citizen or politician of an occupied country who collaborates with an enemy occupying force – or more generally as a synonym for traitor.
I was surprised to learn his wife Maria lived in Oslo until her death in 1980. Never charged with any crime, despite the fact that she spent a lot of money supporting their opulent life style.
His team was woefully inexperienced and under-prepared. Heyerdahl himself couldn’t swim and was afraid of water.
He was hardly a candidate to join the ranks of the great Norwegian sailors. 😀
Yet he did.
The trip began on April 28, 1947. Heyerdahl and five companions sailed the raft for 101 days over 6,900 km (4,300 miles) across the Pacific Ocean before smashing into a reef at Raroia in the Tuamotus on August 7, 1947. The crew made successful landfall and all returned safely.
Without question, Thor was stubborn and brave. An adventure badass.
That’s a private campground that cost$ money. In 2023 I went instead to the free beach nearby called Haukland. Also good, but not as good.
As parking lots are rarely level, everyone carries these plastic wheel lifters for their vehicles.
Day 8 — July 8th, 2023
Low fog and misty rain. I decided to cycle to one of two hostels in Lofoten ➙ Lydersen Rorbuer.
Stayed 2 nights taking a break and getting some photos and video edited. Did laundry.
I had a great time in 2022. And enjoyed it just as much in 2023.
Here’s the view from the hostel. Low cloud, as you can see.
Nearby is a good store and cafe.
My most mellow day, so far.
Day 9 — July 9th, 2023
Weather was expected to improve today. Some headed up to the main hike from here ➙ Ryten.
As I’d done it in 2022, I headed instead to a lower hike called Ytresandheia – Røren. Excellent, though I’d not even heard about it. It’s the alternative to Ryten when the peak is socked in.
Ytresandheia – Røren
Later — having finished my video editing — I took an evening hike. This photo was shot at 9pm, for example. There is no night above the Arctic Circle in early July.
Day 10 — July 10th, 2023
Next morning I cleaned and organized my gear.
There’s an impressive looking peak called FLAKSTADTIND you see out the window of the hostel. Staff told me it’s actually quite easy and popular with locals.
With the good weather, it was fantastic.
Continuing on south, I stopped to fly the drone through one of the many fish drying racks. Typically cod is hung for about 16 weeks. Much is sold to Italy and Africa.
When I rolled through Reine, weather was perfect. I knew hundreds of people would have climbed 448m to the top of Reinebringen. It would be VERY crowded.
Having done the most popular photo op in Norway twice before, I gave it a miss this time.
But here’s the VIDEO as I can’t resist posting it again. 😀
Instead I cycled leisurely to the end of the line ➙ the quaint village of Å.
I’d hoped to hike and tent — but it’s not legal nor possible anywhere near Å. Lovely evening, however.
I had to backtrack to find a campsite. Even with this vista, I felt it was the least excellent so far in Norway.
Day 11 — July 11th, 2023
It seemed crazy to leave Lofoten with the weather so good — but I rolled on to the free ferry to Bodø.
Farewell Lofoten. One of the best hiking destinations in the world. Know that roads are actually quite crowded and narrow for bicycles. But most of the traffic is tourists, most sympathetic for cyclists.
What actually happened in 2023 was a logistics problem. The ferry to the Faroe Islands was only running once a week. To stop over would leave me there for 8 days — too long, I thought.
When I got an offer to house sit in Berlin, I jumped on it. I’ll be cycling / hiking southern Germany and surrounds instead.
Faroe Islands will have to WAIT for sometime in future. I’ll likely fly.
December 15, 2021:
With my new touring bike, the trip I’d most like to take would include Norway, Faroe Islands, and Iceland.
Gorgeous. Expen$ive — unless you are camping most nights.
Ultimate plan is flying to Oslo July 2022. Connecting flight to Tromsø. Have my bike assembled there by a recommended bike shop.
Cycle about 3000km south to Langesund. In about 30 days. That includes close to 300km by ferry.
This route is the recommendation of a consultant I’ve hired. His name … Matthew Norway.
Matthew put together a map for me in the Komoot app. (If anything goes wrong, I’d cycle to the nearest train station. 😀 )
I’d cycle to the Island of Senja first. Then the Lofoten Islands. Those two destinations are my highest priorities.
That route includes about 30 ferries. Most of those free.
UPDATE: The closer I get to starting, the more unrealistic 3000km is looking to me. I’m anticipating cutting out at some point — and taking the train south so I have time for the Faroe Islands. Another high priority.
If I cut away from the coast, I MIGHT do some famous rides in the south as I work my way to Oslo. Most interesting is Rena to Lillehammer, the Berkebeinerrittet route. It hosts the largest mountain bike race in the world. Or something even more challenging.
Weather is the BIG problem. I’m trying to put together a system that could handle the worst possible conditions. Matthew recommends the Yr.no app for making decisions based on weather.
Finally, I’d take the ferry from Langesund near Oslo toHirtshals on Denmark’s Jutland peninsula. (5hrs)
I’d book the ferry from Hirtshals in Denmark to the Faroe Islands (30 hours). It runs twice a week during the summer.
Once I get to those remote islands, I’ll mainly focus on the most famous hikes. Many of them cost $30 or more as they are all on private land.
It’s another 18 hours by ferry to Iceland. I’m still deciding what to do there.
I’d arrive in Seyðisfjørður on the east coast. Depending on my time and enthusiasm, I MIGHT do one of the routes crossing inland.
Easier would be to find transportation to the most interesting cycling areas:
Iceland is lowest priority of the three destinations as I’ve traveled and hiked there in the past.
An alternative to cycling through Iceland’s interior would be to do CHRIS BURKARD’s 900km route around the remote Westfjords – the Westfjord Way. Lael was on that trip — so I downloaded her map to Komoot.
I flew into Tromsø, Norway summer 2022. BUT Scandinavian Airlines left my bicycle sitting in Heathrow airport for 5 weeks. … And finally sent it back to Canada. ☹️
Making the best of it, I rented bikes in Tromsø and finally travelled by bus down to Lofoten.
I decided to try again summer 2023. And this time my bike and gear did make it to Tromsø.
Tromsø
Hoo hoo.
Cycling the north of Norway was my #1 goal following the pandemic.
Tromsø to Lofoten/ Bodo is the most interesting section, for me.
I spent 2 days in Tromsø getting the bike set-up and packing groceries. Then set off south on a Komoot app route I bought from guru Matthew of CycleNorway.com.
So far it’s mostly been the very popular Eurovelo 1 cycling route.
Day 1 — July 1st, 2023
To start I took a 64km detour 😀 to hike Brosmetinden. Beautiful weather. But WINDY.
That night I set up the tent at Grotfjord beach. Free and fantastic. By law you can camp almost anywhere in Norway at no cost.
Day 2 — July 2nd, 2023
I headed for quaint Hillesøya, a short detour off my route.
There’s a steep day hikeup Nordkollen that’s interesting. Rope and chain assist.
I stash my bike in the trees for these hikes.
I put the metal to the pedal to make it to a favourite campsite from the previous summer.
Fjordgård, Senja
Norway is expensive. I rarely eat at restaurants.
Camp cooking is great — but I do prefer having a picnic table.
Day 3 — July 3rd, 2023
Weather forecast was excellent for one of my main highlights of Norway. The Hesten / Segla hike.
I’d climbed Segla in 2022, posting my most experimental and worst VIDEO yet. 😀
From Segla I cycled south until reaching a tunnel temporarily closed to cyclists. After an hour or so of waiting around, two of us crossed by putting our bikes and gear inside vehicles.
This young German speed demon (140km/day) and I set up our tents at yet another amazing free government campsite called Ersfjordstranda outdoor recreation area.
Day 4 — July 4th, 2023
The great weather continued.
But for reasons unknown, this July Senja island was tortured by big, slow horseflies. I put on my rain suit for protection.
I was waiting for the ferry — FREE for cyclists in Norway — to the next island ➙ Andøya.
Weirdly, I never saw another horse fly. Only Senja island was plagued.
Early evening I came upon this surprisingly modern building.
An ultra modern toilet block. At a push of a button, those windows could be made opaque. Cool.
I decided to set up my tent. It was me and the sheep.
Day 5 — July 5th, 2023
The following day was long and uneventful. No hikes.
The bike and gear working perfectly, my main complaints were muscular soreness in the upper back and neck. I tried to take more short breaks. I’m in no rush.
Andøya is less popular with tourists. The bog better for peat and cloudberries.
So far as I’ve heard from cyclists, France is best set-up. Germany and Austria quickly improving.
Personally, I’d go to Germany next. In addition, Germany is offering a rail pass for tourists ➙ €49 / month for anywhere in the country. You could hop on some trains with a bike.
Rick McCharles 