Category: travel

Cycling Norway, NOT Faroes & Iceland

On By Rick McIn cycling, hiking, travel8 Comments

Below was my original plan posted December 2021.

I leave it for posterity.

What actually happened in 2023 was a logistics problem. The ferry to the Faroe Islands was only running once a week. To stop over would leave me there for 8 days — too long, I thought.

When I got an offer to house sit in Berlin, I jumped on it. I’ll be cycling / hiking southern Germany and surrounds instead.

Faroe Islands will have to WAIT for sometime in future. I’ll likely fly.

December 15, 2021:

With my new touring bike, the trip I’d most like to take would include Norway, Faroe Islands, and Iceland.

Gorgeous. Expen$ive — unless you are camping most nights.

Ultimate plan is flying to Oslo July 2022. Connecting flight to Tromsø. Have my bike assembled there by a recommended bike shop.

Cycle about 3000km south to Langesund. In about 30 days. That includes close to 300km by ferry.

This route is the recommendation of a consultant I’ve hired. His name … Matthew Norway.

Matthew put together a map for me in the Komoot app. (If anything goes wrong, I’d cycle to the nearest train station. 😀 )

I’d cycle to the Island of Senja first. Then the Lofoten Islands. Those two destinations are my highest priorities.

That route includes about 30 ferries. Most of those free.

UPDATE: The closer I get to starting, the more unrealistic 3000km is looking to me. I’m anticipating cutting out at some point — and taking the train south so I have time for the Faroe Islands. Another high priority.

Cycling there looks something like this.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

If I cut away from the coast, I MIGHT do some famous rides in the south as I work my way to Oslo. Most interesting is Rena to Lillehammer, the Berkebeinerrittet route. It hosts the largest mountain bike race in the world. Or something even more challenging.

Click PLAY or watch some Norway cycling and hiking on YouTube.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Weather is the BIG problem. I’m trying to put together a system that could handle the worst possible conditions. Matthew recommends the Yr.no app for making decisions based on weather.

Finally, I’d take the ferry from Langesund near Oslo to Hirtshals on Denmark’s Jutland peninsula. (5hrs)

I’d book the ferry from Hirtshals in Denmark to the Faroe Islands (30 hours). It runs twice a week during the summer.

Once I get to those remote islands, I’ll mainly focus on the most famous hikes. Many of them cost $30 or more as they are all on private land.

It’s another 18 hours by ferry to Iceland. I’m still deciding what to do there.

I’d arrive in Seyðisfjørður on the east coast. Depending on my time and enthusiasm, I MIGHT do one of the routes crossing inland.

Easier would be to find transportation to the most interesting cycling areas:

Click PLAY or watch some Iceland cycling and hiking on YouTube. #inspiration

Iceland is lowest priority of the three destinations as I’ve traveled and hiked there in the past.

An alternative to cycling through Iceland’s interior would be to do CHRIS BURKARD’s 900km route around the remote Westfjords – the Westfjord Way. Lael was on that trip — so I downloaded her map to Komoot.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Cycling Arctic Norway ➙ Lyngen Alps to Lofoten

On By Rick McIn cycling, food, hiking, travel, travelogues, video2 Comments

Trip report by Rick McCharles

Part 1 of 3

  1. Cycling / Hiking Lyngen Alps to Lofoten
  2. Cycling / Hiking Arctic Norway ➙ Lofoten
  3. Cycling Bodø to Trondheim + Kristiansund & Atlantic Road

Click PLAY or get a glimpse on YouTube.

I flew into Tromsø, Norway summer 2022. BUT Scandinavian Airlines left my bicycle sitting in Heathrow airport for 5 weeks. … And finally sent it back to Canada. ☹️

Making the best of it, I rented bikes in Tromsø and finally travelled by bus down to Lofoten.

I decided to try again summer 2023. And this time my bike and gear did make it to Tromsø.

Tromsø

Hoo hoo.

Cycling the north of Norway was my #1 goal following the pandemic.

Tromsø to Lofoten / Bodo is the most interesting section, for me.

I spent 2 days in Tromsø getting the bike set-up and packing groceries. Then set off south on a Komoot app route I bought from guru Matthew of CycleNorway.com.

So far it’s mostly been the very popular Eurovelo 1 cycling route.

Day 1 — July 1st, 2023

To start I took a 64km detour 😀 to hike Brosmetinden. Beautiful weather. But WINDY.

That night I set up the tent at Grotfjord beach. Free and fantastic. By law you can camp almost anywhere in Norway at no cost.

Day 2 — July 2nd, 2023

I headed for quaint Hillesøya, a short detour off my route.

There’s a steep day hike up Nordkollen that’s interesting. Rope and chain assist.

I stash my bike in the trees for these hikes.

I put the metal to the pedal to make it to a favourite campsite from the previous summer.

Fjordgård, Senja

Norway is expensive. I rarely eat at restaurants.

Camp cooking is great — but I do prefer having a picnic table.

Day 3 — July 3rd, 2023

Weather forecast was excellent for one of my main highlights of Norway. The Hesten / Segla hike.

I’d climbed Segla in 2022, posting my most experimental and worst VIDEO yet. 😀

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

TRIP REPORT

From Segla I cycled south until reaching a tunnel temporarily closed to cyclists. After an hour or so of waiting around, two of us crossed by putting our bikes and gear inside vehicles.

This young German speed demon (140km/day) and I set up our tents at yet another amazing free government campsite called Ersfjordstranda outdoor recreation area.

Day 4 — July 4th, 2023

The great weather continued.

But for reasons unknown, this July Senja island was tortured by big, slow horseflies. I put on my rain suit for protection.

I was waiting for the ferry — FREE for cyclists in Norway — to the next island ➙ Andøya.

Weirdly, I never saw another horse fly. Only Senja island was plagued.

Early evening I came upon this surprisingly modern building.

An ultra modern toilet block. At a push of a button, those windows could be made opaque. Cool.

I decided to set up my tent. It was me and the sheep.

Day 5 — July 5th, 2023

The following day was long and uneventful. No hikes.

The bike and gear working perfectly, my main complaints were muscular soreness in the upper back and neck. I tried to take more short breaks. I’m in no rush.

Andøya is less popular with tourists. The bog better for  peat and cloudberries.

I needed up camping on the beach.

Day 6 — July 6th, 2023

Next morning I caught the ferry to Lofoten.

It was a great start to my trip.

Heston

On one list, Norway is ranked the BEST nation in Europe for multi-day cycling.

I’d agree. But that list is suspect.

So far as I’ve heard from cyclists, France is best set-up. Germany and Austria quickly improving.

Personally, I’d go to Germany next. In addition, Germany is offering a rail pass for tourists ➙ €49 / month for anywhere in the country. You could hop on some trains with a bike.

Travelogue PART 2 is next:

Cycling / Hiking Arctic Norway ➙ Lofoten

Visiting Tromsø, Norway

On By Rick McIn cycling, hiking, travelLeave a comment

I spent a couple of weeks cycling and hiking out of Tromsø in 2022.

Returned to start a long cycling tour summer 2023.

It’s an unforgettable tourist destination. All the cruise ships stop.

It’s a year round attraction. Winter is even more popular as folks come to find the northern lights.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. Two of my favourite travel vloggers.

Want more?

Tromsø, Norway: Full Travel Guide

Visiting Mikey in Trento, Italy

On By Rick McIn travelLeave a comment

I arrived northern Italy stomach sick from Tuscany.

Mikey found me a free place to stay. And a secure lock-up for the bike.

Day 1 = LAUNDRY.

Mikey and I had coached together in Bermuda.

He’s a world adventurer with big plans for future projects. Mikey only works long enough to get enough cash for his next challenge.

One day I cycled along the river north towards Bolzano on the Val d’Adige cycle path.

Those cliffs in the background welcome more wingsuit and BASE jumpers than anywhere else in the world. Trento is where new jumpers go to learn.

Mikey has hundreds of jumps already. And has started teaching wingsuit, as well.

I paid my first entrance fee in crowded Europe 2023 to visit the museum at Buonconsiglio Castle.

My initial plan to volunteer to WORK for a ticket was rejected. 😀

Trento is a cool tourist city. Better than Bolzano, I reckon, as a jumping off point for the western Dolomites.

There’s a good museum (MUSE) as a number of different Universities.

Tourists walk the pedestrian streets of the old town.

When Mikey stored my bike, I was free to takeoff with just my backpack:

  • Dolomites hiking
  • Switzerland hikng
  • Spain for AJ (Dave) Green’s 60th birthday party

The hiking highlight was getting back to my favourite day hike in the world ➙ Harder Ridge.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube. 

Thanks Mikey!

AJ (Dave) Green’s 60th Birthday

On By Rick McIn friends, travelLeave a comment

I hadn’t seen AJ in over 35 years. Not since he moved to Munich, Germany.

We’d coached together at Altadore back in the 1980s. And were College roommates for some months, as well.

But when he invited me to a big birthday party in southern Spain, I really wanted to go.

And it was superb. AJ is an excellent event organizer.

It started Friday night on the rooftop of the 5 star Gran Hotel Gvadalapin Banus in Marbella.

Two birthdays were celebrated. AJ and one of his original business partners from Munich in AJ’s Fitness. This is Bettina, a classy lady. She and her husband are an impressive couple.

The guests were friends from the fitness studio — as well as friends and family from North America. AJ’s husband Darin is originally from Reno. (A very funny guy. Constantly entertaining. They’ve been together for 31 years.)

Saturday afternoon was a pool party. I skipped it fearing all large bodies of water. 😀

Saturday night was the BIG party at a huge, exclusive villa.

I slept on the upstairs patio couch.

You’d be correct in ASSuming that a smelly backpacker was out of place in a mansion this impressive. 😀

Birthday presentations.

I was happy and honoured to be able to attend.

I do love southern Spain, too. If forced to live amongst the chain smoking Europeans, it would be in Andalusia.

My #2 choice would be Portugal.

Enjoying Pizza in Italy

On By Rick McIn food, travelLeave a comment

I love all pizza.

But if forced to name my best ever, I say Sorbillo’s in Naples. Gorgonzola, ham, mushroom. Fantastic. And inexpensive.

When I first travelled Italy at age-17, Rockin’ Ronnie introduced me to Calzone. Oven-baked folded pizza made with leavened dough.  It originated in Naples, as well.

Back in Italy in 2023, I thought I’d further explore the pizza homeland.

Alice Pizza is a super popular chain. Light, airy dough made with little yeast.

Of 60 varieties, my server in Lucca recommended something unique. Like a pizza ham sandwich. Served cold, not hot. Delicious.

In the mountainous north, Mikey likes a Trento pizzeria run by a family from Napoli.

This was the combo recommended to me by the boss. Spinach. Pork. …

This Capricciosa in an airport restaurant was surprisingly good. Plenty of artichokes.

How to Travel the World for Free

On By Rick McIn books, travelLeave a comment

An intriguing book title:

How to Travel the World for Free: One Man, 150 Days, Eleven Countries, No Money! 

Published 2013, this is an entertaining read.

Author Michael Wigge must be a charmer in person.

… 25,000 miles—from Berlin to Antarctica—without any money!

Join Michael Wigge as he immerses himself into fascinating subcultures, rides with Amish farmers in old-fashioned buggies, sleeps on the street with the homeless, and, with the help from alternative lifestylers, learns to nourish himself with flowers.

Wigge had only 3 concerns during his travels: How do I get some food? How will I get to my next destination? Where can I sleep?…all without money!

This unusual travel diary combines adventure with humor and contains surprising revelations about when money is really needed—and when it’s not. A must-read for every travel and adventure fan!

Sprawling, Historic Genoa, Italy

On By Rick McIn travelLeave a comment

I’m intrigued.

With only a 2-hour stopover, this port city with a greater population of 1.5 million seems crammed between hills and sea.

The old city is a chaotic maze of narrow streets.

Genoa (Genova) was the capital of one of the most powerful maritime republics for over seven centuries, from the 11th century to 1797.

I really want to visit longer.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Pisa – My Italian HUB

On By Rick McIn cycling, travelLeave a comment

I flew into Pisa only because it was closest to the start of the Tuscany Trail 2023 bikepacking tour.

And ended up staying 9 nights over 3 visits.

Pisa is NOT one of the 20 most visited Italian tourist cities.

Unlike Florence and Siena, it’s NOT packed shoulder-to-shoulder wth foreigners.

Most do a quick day trip to the leaning tower — then move on. Many stay over just one night.

For that reason the must see attraction is quiet quiet and peaceful in the evening, when the tour buses are gone.

It’s very convenient to get from the Pisa airport to the train station by a people mover system.

The main reason I came back, however, was the Safestay Pisa Hostel.

Inexpensive. Roomy. Good restaurant. Secure lock-up for the bike and extra luggage.

No kitchen — my only complaint.

At dusk I’d also often hang out on the Arno river. Pretty.

I was also super happy with the Smile & Ride Bike Shop near the Pisa train station. I’d use that company again, anytime.

I liked Pisa the first time I visited at age-17. And I like it even more today.

Why I QUIT the Tuscany Trail

On By Rick McIn anti-smoking, best bike rides, cycling, government, health & fitness, travel2 Comments

The scenery is amazing. Excellent and varied cycling possibilities.

One of the best areas of the world for biking adventures.

Click PLAY or watch 2-minutes of highlights on YouTube.

Ultimately, I had to quit after day 3 because of illness.

Drinking from the same hoses and standing pipes as every other cyclist, I suffered some sort of stomach problem. Diarrhea. Threw up on my shoes, at one point.

Didn’t eat for about 36 hours.

BUT if not sick I might have still quit after Siena. Completing about 190km of the 472 total.

For one thing, the afternoon lightning storms were terrifying. Even the most experienced riders hunker down in lightning. Two were killed in Tuscany as I post — both hit by falling trees.

The rain turned some trails into impassable mud baths. … Though it did soften up some other trails.

My bike is excellent for normal bikepacking — but the Tuscany Trail was far more technical than I’d expected. A mountain bike with very little weight attached is what most experience riders were rocking.

I was envious of the electric mountain bikes.

My bike was the 2nd most inappropriate rig. Worse was a 2-person tandem. Husband and wife. I wished them luck.

I was cycling with ALL my gear for a months long trip.

On one of the many downhill, rocky trails a screw came loose on my front pannier rack. So my front saddle bags were rocking side-to-side.

In Siena I took as much off the bike as possible (see photo below) and went to find luggage storage.

IF you Google “siena luggage storage” you’ll find a wealth of options.

All lies. In Siena there are only tobacco shops who hold a few bags as side income. And they only open randomly. Not Sundays. … And this was Sunday.

WHY doesn’t Siena have 24-hour lockers like most Italian tourist cities.

My theory since age-17 is that Italy is hopeless for tourists.

Nothing works. Nothing is open when you need it.

A long history of government inefficiency and corruption makes it this way.

Note that Germany and Switzerland next door are two of the most efficient nations.

There are no real enforced rules in Italy. Yet every time a tourist turns around somebody is yelling at you for violating an unnecessary rule. Yeesh.

When tourists complain, it’s explained that Italians don’t care about entrepreneurship nor efficiency because they value lifestyle over money. I don’t buy it.

Chain-smoking and sipping tiny espressos is not a healthy lifestyle.

I’d definitely return to Tuscany for cycling. But not likely the most famous ride ➙ the Tuscany Trail.

For one thing, it’s mainly a ca$h grab by organizers. They spend very little and pocket over 100 € / person. Normally capped at 3000, in 2023 they went up to about 4700 bikes. Too many for these trails and small towns.

Better, for example. is the Ganza Gravel event. October is much better weather than June. Cyclists have 3-4 different routes to choose from. Folks get together for meals in the evenings. There might even be a food festival at the end.

For those who are not really cyclists, the supported electric bike tours looked very good to me. Not inexpensive.