The rain. And the rainbows.
Sean Kitching, one of my favourite YouTube editing experts, is giving up his house. Going full-time on the road in a camper van.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Category: travel
Deutsches Museum, Munich
As teenagers, we were blown away when first visiting the Deutsches, the world’s largest museum of science and technology.
I’m talking about the main museum founded 1903. There are two more branches , one in Bonn, and one in Nuremberg.
There is a huge line-up for entry so I bought my ticket online. No lineup for me.
It’s great for kids as there are so many hands-on exhibits.
50+ science subject areas.
Click PLAY or see the entire museum in 4 minutes on YouTube. Some impressive drone work.
IF the world ends, we could rebuild modern science from scratch IF we had everything in the Deutsches Museum. 😀
In 1976 we Canadian tourists were intrigued with the Foucault Pendulum. And it’s still there.
A demonstration of the Earth’s rotation.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Bridge making is an art and science well covered in the Deutsches Museum.
I saw the very desk used by the Curies.
Maria Salomea Skłodowska-Curie, born in Poland, was the first woman to win a Nobel Prize, the first person to win a Nobel Prize twice, and the only person to win a Nobel Prize in two scientific fields. Her husband, Pierre Curie, was a co-winner of her first Nobel Prize, making them the first-ever married couple to win the Nobel Prize.
The Curies announced the existence of an element they named “polonium“, and of a second element, which they named “radium“, from the Latin word for “ray”. In the course of their research, they also coined the word “radioactivity“.
Marie died in 1934, aged 66, at the Sancellemoz sanatorium in Passy (Haute-Savoie), France, of aplastic anemia, likely from exposure to radiation in the course of her scientific research.
Pierre Curie died after being struck in the street by a horse-drawn vehicle.
There’s a good section on the Enigma machine, employed extensively by Nazi Germany during World War II.
The Brits famously broke the Enigma machine code at Bletchley Park. Gordon Welchman, who became head of Hut 6 working on that project, admitted they wouldn’t have been successful without consulting cipher-breakers Poles who had cracked Enigma in 1932.
It would take hundreds of hours to look at all 28,000 exhibited objects in the Deutsches Museum.
I downloaded the app and took a “highlights tour” with audio. Recommended for the first time visitor to the museum.
Visiting Tegernsee, Bavaria
Lake Tegernsee is surrounded by an alpine landscape of Upper Bavaria, and has an economy mainly based on tourism.
It’s about an hour by train from Munich. Even closer to Austria.
I cycled the 18.8-km loop around the lake. Plus side trips.
Then — on Claudia’s recommendation — had soup and a beer at famed Restaurant Bräustüberl.
I tried the leberspatzlesuppe (liver dumpling soup). Not visually appealing, but tasted great.
I drink only 1 beer / year. But where better than Bavaria on a hot afternoon?
Hop-On / Hop-Off Munich
Reconnaissance is often a good idea.
For bigger cities, I find buying a Hop-On / Hop-Off bus ticket is a good way to grok the big picture for tourists.
Usually 24-hours is enough for me. I do the afternoon day 1. Morning day 2.
Typically I’ll ride the entire loop first, deciding on priorities for later.
In Munich I want to visit and/or revisit:
- 1972 Olympic venue / BMW World
- Deutsches Museum
- Nymphenburg Palace and gardens
- English Garden
And more. There’s an interesting Italian market called Eataly, for example.
When I went looking for a good bus video, I found my cycling guru Ryan Van Duzer from 2012.
He was vlogging for Viator Travel at the time.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
A Deep Dive into … Bread
Norway has cheaper and far better bread than Canada.
Kneippbrød, for example, is the most popular. 100% whole wheat flour. The whole grain (shell, kernel, and germ) is used.
In Canada, bagels are the most popular bread. I love bagels. No complaint there. 🙂
#2 is packaged sliced white bread. Not good.
I believe the main reason bread is better in Europe than North America is competition. There are far more bakeries and producers — still — in Europe.
Since fewer Canadians buy good break, it’s comparatively expensive compared with the Superstore white bread sold as a loss leader at CAD $.97.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Visiting Oslo, Norway
In 2018, Lonely Planet named Oslo one of the ten best cities in the world to visit, citing the Norwegian capital’s “innovative architecture and unmissable museums alongside cool bars, bistros and cafés“.
I was there in 2018, appreciating most the many weird and wonderful public sculptures.
I stayed close to the Opera House. Walking tours.
Returning in 2023, I explored other tourist highlights.
BEST was the Bygdøy district, home of 5 national museums as well as famous estates. Quisling’s home is here, for example.
The Kon-Tiki museum is excellent. I was reminded of Thor Heyerdahl‘s many adventures.
I learned about Gerd Vold Hurum, the secret 7th member of the Kon-Tiki expedition. She was key in organizing the expedition on shore. But never got famous. After all, Gerd was only a woman. 😕
The Fram Museum is perhaps even better.
It honours Norwegian polar exploration in general and three great Norwegian polar explorers in particular – Fridtjof Nansen, Otto Sverdrup and Roald Amundsen.
The museum shares entertaining stories of each.
Norwegians were the most successful of the Arctic and Antarctic explorers, I’d say, because they were smart enough to learn from native peoples. And understood the importance of dogs in crossing snow and ice.
Roald Amundsen’s team was the first to reach the South Pole on December 14th, 1911; five weeks later the polar party led by Robert Falcon Scott was second.
Amundson was a dedicated explorer. Life long. Arrogant and competitive.
Despite his hard man exterior, those who knew him well found a humorous, self-deprecating storyteller.
Fridtjof Nansen was oft quoted. He led the team that made the first crossing of the Greenland interior in 1888.
Scurvy was a huge problem for the Norwegians. All they carried with vitamin C was pemican. It wasn’t enough.
I could travel the city more widely as I had my bike this time.
This was one of the warmest days of the year.
Farewell Oslo.
Quisling – Collaborating with the Enemy
The word quisling has come to mean a citizen or politician of an occupied country who collaborates with an enemy occupying force – or more generally as a synonym for traitor.
The word originates from the surname of the Norwegian war-time leader Vidkun Quisling, who headed a domestic Nazi collaborationist regime during World War II.
In Oslo, I visited Quisling’s residence, Villa Grande, which he called “Gimlé“, a name taken from Norse mythology.
He last met with Hitler January 1945.
Quisling was executed by firing squad at Akershus Fortress 24 October 1945.
I was surprised to learn his wife Maria lived in Oslo until her death in 1980. Never charged with any crime, despite the fact that she spent a lot of money supporting their opulent life style.
Thor Heyerdahl – Kon-Tiki expedition
Like tens of millions of people my age, I was enthralled with Thor Heyerdahl books. The Kon-Tiki expedition‘ in particular.
In Oslo, I visited the Kon-Tiki museum. Very good.
His team was woefully inexperienced and under-prepared. Heyerdahl himself couldn’t swim and was afraid of water.
He was hardly a candidate to join the ranks of the great Norwegian sailors. 😀
Yet he did.
The trip began on April 28, 1947. Heyerdahl and five companions sailed the raft for 101 days over 6,900 km (4,300 miles) across the Pacific Ocean before smashing into a reef at Raroia in the Tuamotus on August 7, 1947. The crew made successful landfall and all returned safely.
Without question, Thor was stubborn and brave. An adventure badass.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Cycling / Hiking Arctic Norway ➙ Lofoten
Trip report by Rick McCharles
Part 2 of 3
- Cycling / Hiking Lyngen Alps to Lofoten
- Cycling / Hiking Arctic Norway ➙ Lofoten
- Cycling Bodø to Trondheim + Kristiansund & Atlantic Road
Most of the photos you’ve seen of Norway were shot in the Lofoten archipelago.
Well above the Arctic Circle.
Distinctive scenery with dramatic peaks, fjords, sheltered bays & beaches.
Click PLAY or watch my HIGHLIGHTS VIDEO on YouTube. Shot over 2 weeks 2022 and 2023.
However, the BEST hiking video I’ve watched is from Harmen Hoek June 2023. Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Day 6 — July 6th, 2023
I took yet another free ferry to get to Lofoten.
Welcome back. This was my 3rd visit to Lofoten.
As Lofoten is crowded with motor vehicles, I’d say cycling is the best way to travel here.
You can travel by bus — but many run only a few times a day.
Accommodation is booked long in advance. But with a bike you can set up your tent pretty much wherever you wish. And there are many good options.
Day 7 — July 7th, 2023
Weather was mixed. In any given hour you might get sun, rain, or mist.
Nobody complains about the scenery in Lofoten, however. It’s all marvellous.
In 2022, by far my favourite campsite was Uttakleiv Beach.
That’s a private campground that cost$ money. In 2023 I went instead to the free beach nearby called Haukland. Also good, but not as good.
As parking lots are rarely level, everyone carries these plastic wheel lifters for their vehicles.
Day 8 — July 8th, 2023
Low fog and misty rain. I decided to cycle to one of two hostels in Lofoten ➙ Lydersen Rorbuer.
Stayed 2 nights taking a break and getting some photos and video edited. Did laundry.
I had a great time in 2022. And enjoyed it just as much in 2023.
Here’s the view from the hostel. Low cloud, as you can see.
Nearby is a good store and cafe.
My most mellow day, so far.
Day 9 — July 9th, 2023
Weather was expected to improve today. Some headed up to the main hike from here ➙ Ryten.
As I’d done it in 2022, I headed instead to a lower hike called Ytresandheia – Røren. Excellent, though I’d not even heard about it. It’s the alternative to Ryten when the peak is socked in.
Later — having finished my video editing — I took an evening hike. This photo was shot at 9pm, for example. There is no night above the Arctic Circle in early July.
Day 10 — July 10th, 2023
Next morning I cleaned and organized my gear.
There’s an impressive looking peak called FLAKSTADTIND you see out the window of the hostel. Staff told me it’s actually quite easy and popular with locals.
With the good weather, it was fantastic.
Continuing on south, I stopped to fly the drone through one of the many fish drying racks. Typically cod is hung for about 16 weeks. Much is sold to Italy and Africa.
When I rolled through Reine, weather was perfect. I knew hundreds of people would have climbed 448m to the top of Reinebringen. It would be VERY crowded.
Having done the most popular photo op in Norway twice before, I gave it a miss this time.
But here’s the VIDEO as I can’t resist posting it again. 😀
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Instead I cycled leisurely to the end of the line ➙ the quaint village of Å.
I’d hoped to hike and tent — but it’s not legal nor possible anywhere near Å. Lovely evening, however.
I had to backtrack to find a campsite. Even with this vista, I felt it was the least excellent so far in Norway.
Day 11 — July 11th, 2023
It seemed crazy to leave Lofoten with the weather so good — but I rolled on to the free ferry to Bodø.
Farewell Lofoten. One of the best hiking destinations in the world. Know that roads are actually quite crowded and narrow for bicycles. But most of the traffic is tourists, most sympathetic for cyclists.
Cycling Norway, NOT Faroes & Iceland
Below was my original plan posted December 2021.
I leave it for posterity.
What actually happened in 2023 was a logistics problem. The ferry to the Faroe Islands was only running once a week. To stop over would leave me there for 8 days — too long, I thought.
When I got an offer to house sit in Berlin, I jumped on it. I’ll be cycling / hiking southern Germany and surrounds instead.
Faroe Islands will have to WAIT for sometime in future. I’ll likely fly.
December 15, 2021:
With my new touring bike, the trip I’d most like to take would include Norway, Faroe Islands, and Iceland.
Gorgeous. Expen$ive — unless you are camping most nights.
Ultimate plan is flying to Oslo July 2022. Connecting flight to Tromsø. Have my bike assembled there by a recommended bike shop.
Cycle about 3000km south to Langesund. In about 30 days. That includes close to 300km by ferry.
This route is the recommendation of a consultant I’ve hired. His name … Matthew Norway.
Matthew put together a map for me in the Komoot app. (If anything goes wrong, I’d cycle to the nearest train station. 😀 )
I’d cycle to the Island of Senja first. Then the Lofoten Islands. Those two destinations are my highest priorities.
That route includes about 30 ferries. Most of those free.
UPDATE: The closer I get to starting, the more unrealistic 3000km is looking to me. I’m anticipating cutting out at some point — and taking the train south so I have time for the Faroe Islands. Another high priority.
Cycling there looks something like this.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
If I cut away from the coast, I MIGHT do some famous rides in the south as I work my way to Oslo. Most interesting is Rena to Lillehammer, the Berkebeinerrittet route. It hosts the largest mountain bike race in the world. Or something even more challenging.
Click PLAY or watch some Norway cycling and hiking on YouTube.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Weather is the BIG problem. I’m trying to put together a system that could handle the worst possible conditions. Matthew recommends the Yr.no app for making decisions based on weather.
Finally, I’d take the ferry from Langesund near Oslo to Hirtshals on Denmark’s Jutland peninsula. (5hrs)
I’d book the ferry from Hirtshals in Denmark to the Faroe Islands (30 hours). It runs twice a week during the summer.
Once I get to those remote islands, I’ll mainly focus on the most famous hikes. Many of them cost $30 or more as they are all on private land.
It’s another 18 hours by ferry to Iceland. I’m still deciding what to do there.
I’d arrive in Seyðisfjørður on the east coast. Depending on my time and enthusiasm, I MIGHT do one of the routes crossing inland.
Easier would be to find transportation to the most interesting cycling areas:
- Westfjords
- Highlands (example)
Click PLAY or watch some Iceland cycling and hiking on YouTube. #inspiration
Iceland is lowest priority of the three destinations as I’ve traveled and hiked there in the past.
An alternative to cycling through Iceland’s interior would be to do CHRIS BURKARD’s 900km route around the remote Westfjords – the Westfjord Way. Lael was on that trip — so I downloaded her map to Komoot.
Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.
Rick McCharles 