Jan 17, 2019 – 90km  to Chiloe

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I checked out of my Puerto Montt Hostel as late as possible. My plan was to take 2 easy days riding to Ancud on the island of Chiloe. I’d take more frequent rest stops, as well.

Certainly I’d been pushing too hard so far.

Chile had promised to ban plastic grocery bags last year and seems to have followed up. Here and there recycling is getting organized, too.

I’m finally semi-happy with how my gear is loaded.

I took this road last year by bus. From the bike you see much more, however.

And you can easily stop for weird local tourist attractions.

I again enjoyed an inexpensive and efficient ferry over to Chiloe.

Each day I cycle past dozens of these small memorials. This is the most elaborate I’ve seen so far.

On pavement I made much better time than expected. Early on — feeling strong — I decided to do the entire 90km in one day. Here’s Ancud, a town everyone in Chile regards with fondness. (pop 40,000)

I rode the old bridge into town.

Chiloe is famous for rain and wind. But not tonight.

My hostel from last year was full so they sent me down to a lovely place on the ocean called Mundo Nuevo. New World.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

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Jan 16, 2019 – 85km – Change in planned itinerary.

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It had rained on and off most of the night. Happily the liquid sunshine quit when I got up.

A little friend came to visit my camp.

Weather was clearing.

I finally hit some rough road. 30km of gravel, mostly steep up and downs. ☹️ Not to mention the goat traffic.

By the time I got to the ferry at Caleta Puelche, I had decided to change my plan. Instead of continuing south on the undeveloped Carretera Austral, I’d detour to the island of Chiloe.

Instead of many days of rough roads and no amenities, I’d be on pavement enjoying the occasional hostel, hot shower and excellent supermarket. 😎

I’d decided not to do the entire CA because the last 600km sounds like 10 days of NOT FUN. Therefore I’ve got more time to detour off the main road and enjoy the sights.

Dave Adlard assured me this magic bracelet would keep me on the bike when I really, really wanted to quit. 🙄

It doesn’t work, Dave.

The ferry system in Patagonia is impressive. And inexpensive. And efficient.

I was back in civilization on the other side.

On the other hand, I was headed to Puerto Montt.

Though I’d originally planned to miss Puerto Montt, I ended up staying overnight.  Only 22km from where I started. 🙄

It’s got a bad reputation as a rough port town. Locals call it Muerto Montt, meaning ‘Dead Montt’.

Still, it does appeal to me in a few ways.

The location of the bus station is stunning. It’s no problem to wait on your next ride, as most travellers are doing when they get here.

The waterfront is well done. And fun.

As the only good hostel in town was full I stayed instead in inexpensive, friendly Hostal Jacob .

Definitely not 100% healthy, I wanted my own room.

I was really tired for the last 20km into town, resting frequently at bus stops where I could sit.

I’ll take it easy for the next 2 days en route to Ancud.

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Jan 13, 2019

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Atypically, I did something smart.

Instead of dashing off instantly on a (potentially) 4 week cycling trip as soon as I got the bike … I took a test drive day instead.

There’s a super popular cycling route Puerto Varas to Petrohue. along Llanquihue, the second largest lake in Chile.

It’s a dedicated cycling lane on good pavement.

I rode out to Venado Beach. And back.

That was enough to know I loved the rental bike. 🙂

On my return I realized I’d left two items on the Lifeguard stand base at the beach. So I turned around and cycled back to the beach. That added another 2 1/2 hours to my test drive.

One item was there. But somebody had picked up my expensive Apple EarPod chicklet case. It’s useless to them without the EarPods. And my EarPods are now useless to me.

I’m forced back to headphones with wires. 😠

I stopped back at my rental agency Austral Bikes in Puerto Varas.

Happy to meet Diana who had answered in English clearly explaining costs and details. She was by far best online of any of the companies I had contacted.

Cost was US$445 for 4 weeks. In addition I’ll pay for boxing and shipping the bike back to PV end-of-trip. That might cost another $40. If I don’t use all the days they’ll credit me 50% / day back.

I’m very happy with the rental bike her son Juan Pablo provided. It’s a brand new Silverback with 26 inch wheels, recommended for the gravel roads yet to come. Basic. Durable. Hopefully reliable.

The Carretera Austral runs about 1,240 kilometers (770 mi) from Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins through (sparsely populated) rural Patagonia. …

This area is characterized by thick forests, fjords, glaciers, canals and steep mountains. …

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