Why I QUIT the Tuscany Trail

The scenery is amazing. Excellent and varied cycling possibilities.

One of the best areas of the world for biking adventures.

Click PLAY or watch 2-minutes of highlights on YouTube.

Ultimately, I had to quit after day 3 because of illness.

Drinking from the same hoses and standing pipes as every other cyclist, I suffered some sort of stomach problem. Diarrhea. Threw up on my shoes, at one point.

Didn’t eat for about 36 hours.

BUT if not sick I might have still quit after Siena. Completing about 190km of the 472 total.

For one thing, the afternoon lightning storms were terrifying. Even the most experienced riders hunker down in lightning. Two were killed in Tuscany as I post — both hit by falling trees.

The rain turned some trails into impassable mud baths. … Though it did soften up some other trails.

My bike is excellent for normal bikepacking — but the Tuscany Trail was far more technical than I’d expected. A mountain bike with very little weight attached is what most experience riders were rocking.

I was envious of the electric mountain bikes.

My bike was the 2nd most inappropriate rig. Worse was a 2-person tandem. Husband and wife. I wished them luck.

I was cycling with ALL my gear for a months long trip.

On one of the many downhill, rocky trails a screw came loose on my front pannier rack. So my front saddle bags were rocking side-to-side.

In Siena I took as much off the bike as possible (see photo below) and went to find luggage storage.

IF you Google “siena luggage storage” you’ll find a wealth of options.

All lies. In Siena there are only tobacco shops who hold a few bags as side income. And they only open randomly. Not Sundays. … And this was Sunday.

WHY doesn’t Siena have 24-hour lockers like most Italian tourist cities.

My theory since age-17 is that Italy is hopeless for tourists.

Nothing works. Nothing is open when you need it.

A long history of government inefficiency and corruption makes it this way.

Note that Germany and Switzerland next door are two of the most efficient nations.

There are no real enforced rules in Italy. Yet every time a tourist turns around somebody is yelling at you for violating an unnecessary rule. Yeesh.

When tourists complain, it’s explained that Italians don’t care about entrepreneurship nor efficiency because they value lifestyle over money. I don’t buy it.

Chain-smoking and sipping tiny espressos is not a healthy lifestyle.


I’d definitely return to Tuscany for cycling. But not likely the most famous ride ➙ the Tuscany Trail.

For one thing, it’s mainly a ca$h grab by organizers. They spend very little and pocket over 100 € / person. Normally capped at 3000, in 2023 they went up to about 4700 bikes. Too many for these trails and small towns.

Better, for example. is the Ganza Gravel event. October is much better weather than June. Cyclists have 3-4 different routes to choose from. Folks get together for meals in the evenings. There might even be a food festival at the end.

For those who are not really cyclists, the supported electric bike tours looked very good to me. Not inexpensive.

On Eden Street by Peter Grainger

Peter Grainger is still the best author I know who doesn’t have a Wikipedia page.

That’s surprising since his fans are fanatics for his books.

His murder mysteries are different. Slow paced. Very little violence, sex, or profanity.

Detailed police procedurals.

The mystery is secondary to the relationships between characters. For example, in this 2020 book there’s a charming love story between a blind musician and Detective Sergeant Christopher Waters.

“He might be a nobody, but he was their nobody and their first case.”

The new Kings Lake Central murder squad is about to spend its first morning on team-building exercises and reviewing cold cases when the call comes in that the body of one of the city’s rough sleepers has been found in a shop doorway.

It happens, someone says, he isn’t the first to die on the streets and he won’t be the last, but the story the new team begins to uncover is far from routine. …

Amazon

Normal People – miniseries

Excellent TV.

On Rotten Tomatoes 91% “Certified Fresh”.

Daisy Edgar-Jones as Marianne Sheridan is awesome as the self-declared High School social outcast.

AND she was terrific later as the lead in Where the Crawdads Sing.

Count me a fan.

Normal People (2020) is an Irish romantic psychological drama limited series … is based on the 2018 novel of the same name by Sally Rooney.

The series follows the relationship between Marianne Sheridan (Daisy Edgar-Jones) and Connell Waldron (Paul Mescal), as they navigate adulthood from their final days in secondary school to their undergraduate years in Trinity College.  …

Critics praise the subtle performances, directing, writing, aesthetics, and portrayal of mature content.

Sarah Greene as Lorraine Waldron, Connell’s single mother, is terrific. The character to admire in this drama.

After all that rah rah … I must admit I only made it through the first 6 episodes. I got to depressed with how Marianne lets her life be ruined. And that Connell lets her.

Wayward by Blake Crouch

The Wayward Pines Trilogy (2012–2014) is a mystery/thriller/science fiction novel series by American author Blake Crouch.

It follows U.S. Secret Service agent Ethan Burke as he unravels the mystery surrounding his unanticipated arrival in the small town of Wayward Pines, Idaho, following a devastating car accident.

The novels are Pines (2012), Wayward (2013), and The Last Town (2014).

In 2015, the novels were adapted into the television series Wayward Pines. …

For me the 2nd book in the series was not as good as the first. Though it does have the kind of cliffhanger ending that made me put book #3 on hold at my library.

Ethan Burke is now surprisingly the sheriff, seemingly in the confidence of  Dr. Pilcher who runs the mystery town.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Cycling the Balkans – Wes Anderson style

HOW do you make backpacking VIDEOS interesting? 😀

The Balkans Mirage: A Journey on Wheels … documenting four friends’ ride through the Balkans-a geographical area in southeastern Europe known for its stunning vistas, great riding, history, and bridges—lots of bridges.

The 11-minute film follows the four fictionalized characters as they pedal 1,250 kilometers through Bosnia, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, and Greece. …

Bikepacking.com

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

A Curious Beginning by Deanna Raybourn

London, 1887.  Ending at the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. Her 50th anniversary.

This is a lightweight but entertaining read about an adventurous young woman who’s thoroughly modern in her outlook to life.

After burying her spinster aunt, orphaned Veronica Speedwell is free to resume her world travels in pursuit of scientific inquiry—and the occasional romantic dalliance.

As familiar with hunting butterflies as with fending off admirers, Veronica intends to embark upon the journey of a lifetime.

But fate has other plans when Veronica thwarts her own attempted abduction with the help of an enigmatic German baron, who offers her sanctuary in the care of his friend Stoker, a reclusive and bad-tempered natural historian.

But before the baron can reveal what he knows of the plot against her, he is found murdered—leaving Veronica and Stoker on the run from an elusive assailant as wary partners in search of the villainous truth.

Amazon

My Soul to Take by Yrsa Sigurðardóttir

Yrsa, born 1963, is an Icelandic author.

My Soul to Take is the 2nd book in her Thóra Gudmundsdóttir series.

Perhaps my last. Too many characters. Too complicated.

The killer revealed in a way that would not impress Agatha Christie.

Like the first book, the plot sounded interesting.

In the mystical Snæfellsnes region on Iceland’s west coast – at a New Age health resort in a renovated farmhouse – the body of a young woman is discovered, savagely beaten, with pins inserted into her feet.

Thóra Gudmundsdóttir, lawyer and single mother of two, has been retained to represent the resort’s owner and prime suspect.

But a fresh corpse is not the only abomination Thóra encounters here – for local legend says this place is haunted, and a bizarre series of inexplicable occurrences soon suggests it is so.

As Thóra digs deeply into the farm’s past, she unearths a shocking history of evil and depravity, and her once-solid view of reality begins to waver.

But a second murder, shockingly similar to the first, pulls Thóra back to earth by making two inescapable truths abundantly clear: the killer she seeks is very real and is not finished yet.

Black Eyed Peas – I Gotta Feeling

The ultimate party song.

Tonight’s the night (hey), let’s live it up (let’s live it up)
I got my money (I’m paid), let’s spend it up (let’s spend it up)
Go out and smash it (smash it), like, “Oh my God” (like, “Oh my God!”)
Jump out that sofa (come on), let’s kick it, off (a fee-)
Fill up my cup (drink), mazel tov (l’chaim)
Look at her dancing (move it, move it), just take it, off (a fee-)
Let’s paint the town (paint the town), we’ll shut it down (shut it down)
Let’s burn the roof (ooh-woo), and then we’ll do it again

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

Sad Cypress by Agatha Christie,

… first novel in the Poirot series set at least partly in the courtroom, with lawyers and witnesses exposing the facts underlying Poirot’s solution to the crimes.

The title is drawn from a song in Shakespeare’s play Twelfth Night. …

One reviewer remarked “it is economically written, the clues are placed before the reader with impeccable fairness, the red herrings are deftly laid and the solution will cause many readers to kick themselves.” …

wikipedia

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

An Afternoon in Florence

Hmm …

I debated taking the short train ride to revisit Florence, one of the most popular tourists cities in the world.

And on a sunny Saturday in May?

A hot, crowded tourist trap. The over-priced attractions were all lined-up and impossible to enter. BEST book your tickets online.

The one place I wanted to pay to visit was the Boboli Gardens. But the line-up at the ticket wicket was too much for me.

My favourite stop was Michelangelo Square, for the panoramic vista.

If you are some sort of puritanical prude, convinced you’ll burn in Hell if you see God’s creation without clothing — don’t come to Florence.

Michelangelo Gay porn is everywhere. 😀

I did my own walking tour of the major plazas and oldest bridge, Ponte Vecchio.

As a fan of statuary, Florence is a terrific outdoor gallery.

Click PLAY or watch it on YouTube.

On the advice of the waiter at a chic eatery 😀 called Porks in the central market (Mercato Centrale) in Florence, I had Tagliatelle with Amatriciana sauce for lunch. Better than Bolognese, I thought.

Amatriciana sauce on Tagliatelle