the trouble with Mexico

If you head on over to my hiking site, you’ll find my trip report hiking Tecolote Beach, Baja.

Looks a paradise, don’t you think?

Even seagulls holiday on Tecolote.

The weather and beaches are excellent. But for several years now I’ve been recommending against travel to Mexico. I’d definitely not be here this year … if Canadian dentists weren’t so over-priced.

Why?

Cost is high. Most things in Baja now cost more than they do in Canada or the States. But not much of that money goes to wages. The rich are getting richer on your tourist dollar.

Quality is low. This beach looks nice. But it’s full of starving dogs.

When they die, nobody here bothers to bury the corpse.

The litter problem is actually better than when I first started coming to Mexico. But locals still litter frequently.

Mexico is right now in a rotten stage of development. It’s certainly not a developing nation, where you might forgive some injustice and growing pains.

But it’s not enough of a developed nation that you can trust food, water or services. (Happily I’ve yet to be shortchanged this trip, though. Nor hassled by cops.)

I recommend Guatamala and Nicaragua as excellent alternatives.

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I’ve never been more powerless and vulnerable than when lying on the dentist’s chair.

But having had so much practice over the years, I believe I’ve gotten quite skilled at being a compliant patient.

Today I had 3 of the 4 corners of my mouth frozen prepping for the installation of permanent bridges. My dentista popped the question: … while we’re here, do you want to fix the 4th corner?

… Why not.

I’m very happy with Dr. Lorenia Estrada, my lady dentist from La Paz, Baja. (I’ve written of my Stockholm syndrome for her before.)

One new thought came to mind on the death bed this time. I believe women make better dentists than men, on average.

They are more empathetic and gentle.

Male dentists are dead to me from here on in.

My cost for all the dental work I’ve had done in La Paz is about $4800.

8,920km Baja road trip

Mom, Dad, Pete and myself arrived safely back in Parksville, B.C. after a month. No major problems. How about that?

It was our first time driving to Baja, California, an epic adventure.

We toured the peninsula right to Cabo. Then crossed to the mainland via the surprisingly good La Paz to Los Mochis ferry.

ferry at La Paz, Baja

ferry at La Paz, Baja

Returning via Needles, California, we visited my Uncle Bob Moore and his wife Lydia.

Uncle Bob Moore, Needles, California

… note that his Flames flag is not yet at half mast. Incidentally, Needles is like many parts of California, an economic disaster. You could buy a mobile home in Bob’s river front park for $10,000. Pay $300/month rent. Play golf year round outside your door for $600/year.

map of Needles, CA

Prices have dropped to almost zero. Yet nothing sells in Needles, CA. If you cross the river into Arizona, fuel prices drop from $3.60/gallon to $2.60/gallon.

The most beautiful sections of our driving tour, I thought, were the stark deserts of northern Baja and Nevada.

Driving to Baja is one of those epic trips that we’ll look back at fondly, while doggedly insisting that we’d never do it again.

Actually, I’ll be headed back to La Paz by air later this Spring for final installation of 3 new dental bridges. I’ve got temporaries now.

Mexican truck

exploring beaches out of La Paz, Baja

My parents and I spent 7 nights in the El Moro hotel, a luxurious getaway. We stayed because only a few hotels are up to this guy’s high standards:

near El Coyote, Baja

El Moro is OK. Hotel choices in La Paz are not all that interesting, in my opinion. Most do not allow pets.

Each day, scheduled between my dental appointments, we made road trips.

First was wonderful Tecolote, the best beach near La Paz. I could camp out here, gladly. It’s paradise.

Mom - La Paz, Baja - Tecolote

This is the jumping off point for Isla Santo Espirito kayak trips.

Another day we got lost on the “road to nowhere” (El Coyote) and found this near deserted beach.

near El Coyote, Baja

On a big loop of Baja south we really liked El Sargento beach, a hangout for snowbirds from British Columbia.

El Sergento beach, Baja

Most everyone likes the south of Baja.

We caught the ferry to mainland Mexico. Is it Summer in Canada yet? We’re on the way home.

I must love the dentist

As a kid I had a horrible dentist. And rotten teeth.

I shunned dentists and avoided their haunts.

Older and wiser, two years ago I flew twice to Mazatlan for major dental work.

Last year I got some work done in Kathmandu.

Over the last week in La Paz, Mexico I’ve spent some quality time with my new dentist, Dr. Lorenia Estrada.

… at least 6 extractions, 5 fillings, 3 long temporary bridges, more …

At times lying back in the chair, trying to relax, trying even to sleep, I believe I turned into Patty Hearst. It was Stockholm syndrome, for sure.

I started to get emotionally attached to my captors. My punishment flashed me back to earlier in the day, floating on an air mattress in the outdoor hot tub at the hotel pool. The dentist’s harsh light reminded me of the tropical sun between palm fronds.

Am I going mad in the Apocalypse Now sense of the word?

from La Paz, Baja

I write from the La Paz office of RickMcCharles.com, worldwide … Cafe Exquisito.

It’s on the famous Malecón, a stone walkway fronting the bay. Mom thinks it’s the prettiest she’s ever seen.

more interesting photos tagged La Paz, Baja Malecón

Instead of going to my “regular” dentist in Mazatlan, I signed on with Dr. Lorenia Estrada in La Paz. She’s putting in several thousands of dollars of bridges.

My long term goal is to have as winning a smile as Joe Biden, … in my coffin.

I got a rave review for Dr. Estrada from an American expat living in Mexico. He liked the dentist so well that he married her dental assistant.

So far, so good. I’m living on yogurt, ice cream, coffee, pain killers and antibiotics.

We take the ferry over to the mainland on Tuesday.

our home in Loreto, Baja – Coco Cabanas

We stayed 9 nights. Life centers around the only heated / refrigerated pool in town.

official website

One of the U.S. owners, Steve, took good care of us. He was most welcoming and informative. Mucho Gracias.

Coco Cabañas is located in Loreto, Baja California, Mexico, one block from the Sea of Cortez and two blocks from downtown. All the fun excitement, shopping and dining is just minutes walking distance away

We have eight individual cabañas surrounding our quiet, palm landscaped courtyard. The courtyard features a pool in the center and a barbecue area to one side. Each cabaña has a fully furnished kitchen, dining area, air conditioning, TV with video library, ceiling fans, beds for one to three persons, bathrooms with showers and hot water. The covered patio porch with fan, chairs and table make the evenings most enjoyable

However long your stay, we will make your visit pleasurable. If you come to fish, dive, snorkel, hike, or just enjoy the natural beauties of Loreto, we can arrange your needs with the best people and places available.

With nightly rates of $89 and weekly of $553 (all taxes included / double occupancy), Coco Cabañas is your best choice with the best accommodations there is to offer.

official website

San Javier Mission, Baja

I was a little worried when I heard the 37km road trip to the San Javier Mission took at least 2hrs, one way.

But Kip and Mary, our hosts and chauffeurs, had been there before. We bounced our way up the rugged track in to the Gigantic Mountains (Sierra Giganta) of the Baja peninsula.

San Javier, Baja

… Jesuit Father Francisco María Píccolo visited the place on May 11, 1699. He started the construction of a chapel in October of the same year …

The church, considered one of the most beautiful and well preserved of the Californias, was built with stone taken from quarry from the bed of the brook of Santo Domingo 20 km southeast of San Javier. Its original baroque appearance has been well preserved; its interior has: a golden altarpiece with five oleos, brought from Mexico City in thirty two boxes; two statues: one of San Francisco Javier and another one of Our Lady of Guadalupe; and a crucifix, all of these are from the 18th century. It has three bells, two of them are dated 1761 and the other one 1803. There is a monument of that time at the end of the street that leads to the church. It is known as “the Cross of Calvary”. From there hundreds of pilgrims who visit the patron saint walk sometimes on their knees. …

read more – Baja Quest

We were quite impressed with the Mission, located high in a green oasis.

San Javier, Baja

This visit is a must do pilgrimage for all tourists (and their pets) visiting Loreto.

San Javier, Baja

After lunch, we made a slower descent, stopping to photograph wild poppies.

San Javier, Baja - poppies

Here Mom’s searching for some ancient Indian rock paintings.

San Javier, Baja - rock paintings

A terrific destination. The San Javier Mission is highly recommended.

see all my photos from the day on flickr

Dad caught two Yellowtail

Our trip to the Baja is a success. Dad caught two (delicious) local delicacies fishing out of Loreto.

… schools of yellowtail make their home exclusively in the Sea of Cortez. In winter, these fish are found in the southern areas from Mulege to La Paz. During summer, they move up to the cool waters of the Midriff Area.

In the spring and fall, yellowtail school up for migration, and it is then that the best catches are made….

Although yellowtail are now scarce in California -waters, there are still lots of them in Baja.

Most big yellowtail caught in the Cortez are found down in the reefs 100 to 250 feet deep. They are hooked either on live bait or on iron jigs yo-yoed near the bottom. …

Baja Catch

He was jigging at about 220ft.